Adventures with Powdercoating

[bazwell]

In by experience if you overbake, you will start getting discolouration, and it gets harder not softer.

It's not recommended to re-coat for some reason, but it's really just like having a 2nd coat I guess. I have re-coated, and contamination was the problem that I got.

Maybe you should just re-cure it. As far as I can tell, most powders work well even if you double the cure time.

 

[fmcandrew]

I agree with Baz...however, there are some folks that believe you get better intercoat adheasion if the first coat is under-cured and then the top coat is fully cured. Most powders have a 100% overbake feature...just don't try it with the clears or translucents as they will dull/yellow on you (as Baz pointed out)

Like anything else...just experiment and be prepared to be frustrated from time to time with failures.

I'm cutting & buffing a piece for the first time...some say it works...some don't...but need to try for myself...learning & sharing that knowledge is what makes this site special.

 

[kcoop99]

I baked some parts with Eastwoods chrome and left them in oven for 40 minutes. Seemed to work VERY well! I should also note that I pre baked them to off gas for 30 minutes prior and then shot them hot. Results were great!

 

[kcoop99]

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[Fire-medic]

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Not-bad for a Nebraska boy!:biglaugh: Be-sure to read Peter Egan's article on driving a BMW through your hometown, in the most-recent Road & Track, I just got mine in the mail.

That parts group came-out great! I like it more-than polished, because of the maintenance factor (or, "lack of maintenance-required").

 

[bazwell]

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Great job. Looks like new! :biglaugh:

 

[fmcandrew]

Was that the single stage chrome? If not you need to clear or use a translucent...othervise they will fade quickly in the elements...

 

[fmcandrew]

On another note...I cut & buffed for the first time last night. I shot a bud's Vrod tank & it had some dust in it. I shot a base coat & a clear coat. Was not happy with final finish so I figured I'd give the cut/buff process a go. Dry sanded with 1500 grit then 2000 grit and buffed with compound using a rotary buffer @ 1000rpms. Just so you know this was my first time cut/buff anything and using a buffer. I was surprised with the results a smuck like me got. Smoothed out the finish & brought back a better shine. I stink, so I know better results could be had with an experianced opperator.

Just wanted to let the PC masses know that it does work & was pretty quick (took me like 1/2 hour total). Once again I did it to a clear top coat...kinda like what would be done with paint. The powder was PBTP XL Clear.

A decent option to stripping & re-shooting...

 

[bazwell]

On another note...I cut & buffed for the first time last night. I shot a bud's Vrod tank & it had some dust in it. I shot a base coat & a clear coat. Was not happy with final finish so I figured I'd give the cut/buff process a go. Dry sanded with 1500 grit then 2000 grit and buffed with compound using a rotary buffer @ 1000rpms. Just so you know this was my first time cut/buff anything and using a buffer. I was surprised with the results a smuck like me got. Smoothed out the finish & brought back a better shine. I stink, so I know better results could be had with an experianced opperator.

Just wanted to let the PC masses know that it does work & was pretty quick (took me like 1/2 hour total). Once again I did it to a clear top coat...kinda like what would be done with paint. The powder was PBTP XL Clear.

A decent option to stripping & re-shooting...

Pics or it didn't happen.

 

[fmcandrew]

It happened...fender on left is untouched...tank on right was sanded and buffed (just like paint). Hard to see in this pic by my crappy phone, but tank has more/deeper shine...no swirls either. And this is my first time ever using a buffer...so results will be better in more capable hands.

 

[kcoop99]

Was that the single stage chrome? If not you need to clear or use a translucent...othervise they will fade quickly in the elements...

Damn. Thanks for sharing that with me! Totally missed that! Well....back to work. :bang head:

 

[kcoop99]

So I'm staring at all my parts and debating buying the clear. Just HOW shitty will my parts look if I DON'T shoot them with clear?

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[fmcandrew]

Kccop99...that depends on the exposure to the elements. The chrome has no real UV protection, thus the need to clear/translucent it. I went with the translucent (my scoops are translucent red powder over chrome powder). I went with a color because when you shoot the clear over the chrome it will dull it out to a shiny silver (at best). I haven't personally shot a chrome powder and let it sit in the sun...so how long it will look decent I couldn't tell ya. I will tell you that it's easier to shoot a top coat now on thise parts vs. stripping and shooting 2 coats down the road. If you have a low end hobby gun and you're having trouble getting the clear to stick just warm up the part (150-180 degrees)...that should do the trick for ya...best of luck!

 

[kcoop99]

I am really happy with my results and hate to dull it out. The only exposure is riding it (which is a lot less than I would like) and I store it in the garage. If I could get 5 years looking good, I'd take it!

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[kcoop99]

Now I am REALLY frustrated. Just went to spray the brake caliper down with brake cleaner (so I could start reassembling it and the chrome powder turned sticky and instantly turned color and rubbed off. What in the world am I doing wrong?? I pre heated, I prepped the parts meticulously, I baked for probably longer than needed.......I am asking this question on the Eastwood forum as well..

 

[fmcandrew]

Kcoop99...powder coat is chemical resistant...not chemical proof! BP cleaner is harsh stuff & will strip paint & gakets easily. I've had brake fluid (also very nasty to paint) drip on my scoops with no issues...but then again my sccops have a clear/transparent over the chrome powder.

I'm pretty sure you wont get 5 years out of unprotected chrome powder...more like 5 months if you're lucky. There are limitations to powder...you're stumbling onto one of them with the chrome powder.

I have Eastwood chrome...I can shoot a sample and subject it to BP cleaner & sunlight to see if I get a similar reaction as you...at least then you'll know if a clear/translucent is really needed.

I do a ton of research before each project...as I hate these setbacks...the cost of my time is substantial...so I try to arm myself with as much info as possible to limit wasted time...just food for thought...

 

[kcoop99]

I appreciate your help! Trying to learn from you guys but running into my own learning curve!

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[fmcandrew]

I'll try to shoot a test piece this weekend and then abuse it...we'll get you through this...at least I have the same powder...

 

[PATMAX]

Just more junk for the pissing match. First time I tried this part which is not seen but needed something as the factory finish was gone. Can't say I'm thrilled with it but it is better and may stay nice for many years. Like I said, it does not really show. Most of you guys will recognize the parts right off the bat. Maybe I should do it in plain silver or black instead of the pseudo "chrome".

When in doubt...Gas it !!!

 

[Fire-medic]

Your carb brackets came out good. What kind of turnaround can you offer? My PC guy seems to take forever. Guess it depends on the condition of the parts & the finish desired. I think they look good from what I see.