old tire did it with less than 1k miles on it
just for reference. i have oversized on both tires. front lasted 10k and rear lasted 7k.
What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
- Start date
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old tire did it with less than 1k miles on it
just for reference. i have oversized on both tires. front lasted 10k and rear lasted 7k.
Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
Today I "bedded" in the new busa calipers' pads to the new rotors. The bike was stopping like crap because I hadn't had a chance to do this yet after I installed the new lines a couple of days ago and bled them. Now she stops GREAT. Those front brakes are amazing. Before I did this, I could see that only about 1/2 the rotor was even being contacted by the pads, so I wasn't surprised by the poor performance.
Oh yeah, I also learned today that triple digits on the max with no windshield is a lot more scary than triple digits on a rocket with a full on fairing. Rode both today for a pretty serious joyride. It was dry, but in the 30's (F), so I got to test out my new Gerbing heated gloves too.
My hands were warm, my new brakes work great, and I'm loving the max. I think I'm only up to about 250 miles on it now! I really need to rack up some miles now that she's back together.
Oh yeah, I also learned today that triple digits on the max with no windshield is a lot more scary than triple digits on a rocket with a full on fairing. Rode both today for a pretty serious joyride. It was dry, but in the 30's (F), so I got to test out my new Gerbing heated gloves too.
My hands were warm, my new brakes work great, and I'm loving the max. I think I'm only up to about 250 miles on it now! I really need to rack up some miles now that she's back together.
How do you like the overall feel of the busa adapters and setup now? Make sure to post some comments in the busa brakes thread.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=9112
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=9112
Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
They are great! I'll post some comments in the busa thread (I didn't know there was such a thread).
Anyway, I can now lock the up front wheel no problem, which of course is NOT my goal, but rather, a good indication that I can squeeze as much braking force out of the pads/rotors/lines/calipers as the tire can handle.
Also, it used to be the case that I really had to bear claw the brake lever, but now, a simple squeeze gives plenty of brake force. I had previously noticed that I was THINKING about when and how hard to brake, because i was so worried about my ability to stop, but now, with the busa conversion and after bedding in the brakes, I DO NOT think about my braking, but rather, I just enjoy the ride. This to me means that the brakes are doing what they are supposed to.
Oil (Mobil 1) and filter in the Gen 1 yesterday. Managed to drop a freshly opened quart on the garage floor. Glad Teri didn't get a pic of me scrubbing the floor. :rofl_200:
Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
What weight oil did you use, and where did you get it? I think it calls for something like 15w/40 if I'm not mistaken (going from memory here). I checked a couple of local stores and could not find that, so I went with I think 20w/40 semi-synthetic.
I'm just curious if I'm asking for trouble. I'm not an oil aficionado.
Anybody think I'm doing myself wrong by using the different oil?
I just grabbed my owner's manual, it it specifies (Yamalube) 10W-30 (cooler temps), and 20W-40 (warmer temps).
I'll likely just use Mobil 1 MX4T (wet clutch) 10W40, year round. You can buy it at Cycle Gear...and I think Auto Zone carries it, too.
Lots of good oil out there, though.
Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
Ah. I had it backwards. I used 15w/40, and it calls for 20w/40 in warmer temps, and yes, 10w/30 in cooler.
If you are in TX and like the Mobil 1 MX4T (wet clutch) 10W40, I'll probably just switch to that.
To be honest, I'm totally ignorant to what the numbers even mean! I suppose I shoudl go and look it up.
Thanks for the reference.
If you are in TX and like the Mobil 1 MX4T (wet clutch) 10W40, I'll probably just switch to that.
To be honest, I'm totally ignorant to what the numbers even mean! I suppose I shoudl go and look it up.
Thanks for the reference.
I just grabbed my owner's manual, it it specifies (Yamalube) 10W-30 (cooler temps), and 20W-40 (warmer temps).
I'll likely just use Mobil 1 MX4T (wet clutch) 10W40, year round. You can buy it at Cycle Gear...and I think Auto Zone carries it, too.
Lots of good oil out there, though.
they sure do. and stopped making both i believe
i've switched to 20w-50 for all riding except for october/november and march/April which is typically one oil change i switch to 10w-40.
Oil discussions are like religion or politics. They can get pretty heated, and few of us really know what's truly going on with the lubrication inside the engine. But, one thing we do know...the oil we're all using is the best! :biglaugh:
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Sorry G...must have missed your question. No I didn't put that wheel on both bikes....'99 handles sooooo well I don't want to risk introducing her to a wobble....they get ideas you know!! :biglaugh:
Nicki66
Well-Known Member
Geek_Law
Well-Known Member
I just made that up to sound smart :ummm:
Ok ... I'm joking. But don't feel stupid, I didn't know what this was until a couple of years ago. But it all makes sense once somebody explains it to you.
For optimal performance, you need to maximize the mating surface of the pads to YOUR specific rotors. Both are generally flat, but not perfectly flat. So you want to really get those nitty gritty contours to be fully mated. On mine, it was pretty bad, because as I noted, only about half the rotor was being used (e.g., abraded) but after, I can see that the whole width is being used.
You want to have a nice even and smooth transfer of braking material going to the rotors, rather than friction causing the brakes to wear in one area, but not another.
Also, there is something magic about getting them really warm gradually, then hot, and then allowing them to cool down. But I am not a magician, and don't understand this, so I just do what I'm told.
Anyway, here is some more extensive reading on why and how to bed the brakes. It really does make a significant difference. Also, a good bleed afterwards doesn't hurt, just to make sure there are no more air bubbles. Especially if you had a dry component, or components, as I did.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I rode to work today and the temp was 27 degrees F! I only have to ride 3.5 miles so it wasn't bad in just my work carhartts, hiking boots, riding jacket w/ liner and Alpinestars Storm Rider GTX gloves.
These are really nice gloves, and keep my hands nice and toasty warm. They are a little pricey but well worth it when it's 27 degrees or 40 and raining!
It has remained sunny and is 45 degrees now so I may be in for a 50 60 mile ride tonight!
unk:
These are really nice gloves, and keep my hands nice and toasty warm. They are a little pricey but well worth it when it's 27 degrees or 40 and raining!
It has remained sunny and is 45 degrees now so I may be in for a 50 60 mile ride tonight!
unk:
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Continued tearing Toxic down to prep for the Toronto Supershow. EFI is now on the bench, coolant drained, radiator removed, and misc. parts cleaned, prepped, and repainted.
twistedmax
Well-Known Member
Redbone Im with ya man:thumbs up::thumbs up:, 33 today at 530 when I hopped on ,spoosed to be 25 tommorrow when Ill do it again.my bike loves the cold air:clapping:dont think the neighbors much like it though:confused2:
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
ordered some hand warmers. fuck 32 deg is cold for 45 mins. hand guards not doing all they could.
thanks vmaxcruzer for the advice. got the toggle switch tho, more room to mount that than the rocker on mine.
thanks vmaxcruzer for the advice. got the toggle switch tho, more room to mount that than the rocker on mine.
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I'm going to ride to work again tomorrow. Only got in about 20 miles before I headed home, it gets mighty cool when there's no sun! Have a great ride! :thumbs up:
vmax626
Well-Known Member
Took the sliders out of the carbs today to find that they were shimmed wrong (washer was on the wrong side of the "E"clip on the needle):ummm:
so, i fixed that and the proper shimming helped alot with the popping but
I have no fuel going into the #3 cyl. and an oil leak (i`m thinking that it`s the upper left manifold bolt , so tomorrow it all comes off for new "O"rings and thread sealer and a float needle check.:bang head::bang head:
<<Dave>>:eusa_dance:
so, i fixed that and the proper shimming helped alot with the popping but
I have no fuel going into the #3 cyl. and an oil leak (i`m thinking that it`s the upper left manifold bolt , so tomorrow it all comes off for new "O"rings and thread sealer and a float needle check.:bang head::bang head:
<<Dave>>:eusa_dance:
