Anyone use this Race Removal Tool?

[satariel666]

If you have a good heat source you barely have to hit them & they fall right out.

Bearings inductive heater - expensive but easy to use.

 

[[email protected]]

Bearings inductive heater - expensive but easy to use.

I thought those heated the bearing to expand it a bit to allow it to be installed on a shaft somewhat easier?

 

[satariel666]

I thought those heated the bearing to expand it a bit to allow it to be installed on a shaft somewhat easier?

Are you asking about specific race or assembly?

Also, I was not talking about using it with bearing...

 

[[email protected]]

Are you asking about specific race or assembly?

Also, I was not talking about using it with bearing...

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BESSEY-Bearing-Heater-4TDK3?Pid=search

This is what came to mind when you mentioned it.

 

[satariel666]

There are many many diffrent heaters avaible...but this one is designed to work with cone/taper
bearings...outer races.Agree?
Also this one i bealve its not inductive.

You see, as many diffent races as they expand diffrent - so thats why I have placed a question in my previous post.

 

[[email protected]]

Agreed.
I am just curious about your idea, trying to learn.
Were you referring to something like this?
http://www.timken.com/en-us/product...tools/installation/Pages/InductionHeater.aspx

 

[Fire-medic]

That style is for when there is a lip of the outer race for the tool tangs to land-upon. I think the lower outer race on the VMax doesn't have any exposed lip for this tool to gain a "purchase." I have seen this tool type used on bicycles.

Kyle mentions a 'heat source,' I wonder if a propane torch would get things hot-enough to release the grip of the outer race being pressed-in. Do you warm the roller bearing surface of the outer race, or do you heat the outside area of the steering head cup itself? I have an acetylene torch so it would heat more-quickly than using propane.

there is like a 1/16" gap in mine between the race and the seat. wondering if it'd grab in there.

 

[CaptainKyle]

I used to try & weld a small bead on them but switched to just heating the race up with my acetylene torch & they come out real easy. I dont use any heat going back in just the old race as a driver.

 

[Fire-medic]

Good to know, thanks for the exact method, Kyle.

I used to try & weld a small bead on them but switched to just heateing the race up with my acetylene torch & they come out real easy. I dont use any heat going back in just the old race as a driver.

 

[gamorg02]

I used to try & weld a small bead on them but switched to just heating the race up with my acetylene torch & they come out real easy. I dont use any heat going back in just the old race as a driver.

so you heat the race up really good then how do you tap it out if there's no lip?

 

[satariel666]

so you heat the race up really good then how do you tap it out if there's no lip?

The best driver for a new bearing is always a race from the old bearing.
You just need to grind it about 0,1mm with whatever you have there.
Just need to create the clearance.

Rule no 1 LOL

 

[satariel666]

Agreed.
I am just curious about your idea, trying to learn.
Were you referring to something like this?
http://www.timken.com/en-us/product...tools/installation/Pages/InductionHeater.aspx

Try to find one that can be used portably - like a stick or torch light.

Heat the frame head - those heaters works up to 120 celcuis so should
be easy on the paint.

 

[gamorg02]

The best driver for a new bearing is always a race from the old bearing.
You just need to grind it about 0,1mm with whatever you have there.
Just need to create the clearance.

Rule no 1 LOL

yea i'm not too worried about putting the new one in, its getting th eold one out.

 

[satariel666]

yea i'm not too worried about putting the new one in, its getting th eold one out.

Yeah if you want to ask me theres only one good solution. A welder of course
cuz it takes 3 min.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If memory serves correct there is denitely no lip to grap the lower race. A gap maybe sometimes.


Applying heat to the race to remove it I think will only make it worse, the race will expand faster than the seat material wouldn't it.

You need to apply heat to the outer area (painted) around the race to expand this metal hopefully faster than the race itslef expands. This worked fine for me and didn't really damage the paint all that much, nothing that couldn't be touched up.

Then you are still faced with how to grab or apply pressure to it.

I tried chiseling at that slight gap but the angles was all wrong.

Ended up drilling a very small hole in my steering neck right where the top edge of the race sits so a punch could be used to get it started moving downward.

Welding to it also works, as does simply cutting it out with a die grinder.

After all this work it would be worthwhile to notch the seat so in the future so a drift pin can used from above to remove it, like Yammie should have done in the first place.

 

[gamorg02]

Yeah if you want to ask me theres only one good solution. A welder of course
cuz it takes 3 min.

agreed, but not really an option for me. no access nor knowledge. i'll buy you a bear if you come out and help? hah

After all this work it would be worthwhile to notch the seat so in the future a drift pin can simply used from above to remove it, like Yammie should have done in the first place.

agreed, like on the needle bearing on the rear wheel.

 

[satariel666]

agreed, but not really an option for me. no access nor knowledge. i'll buy you a bear if you come out and help? hah



agreed, like on the needle bearing on the rear wheel.

Im officialy inviting you and you v-max to Switzerland, over the Lake Of Lucern! LOL :biglaugh:
Help of course is free of charge :rofl_200:

Whats Rusty is saying, thats what Im always doing, at least always try to do -
a small pocket done by dremmel for futher use.

You know my beer friend, there are some special tools for that made by yamaha but... very expensive.


I can always draw a tool for you but you gonna need to find a machinist for that.
Aint gonna be cheap as well.

 

[gamorg02]

Im officialy inviting you and you v-max to Switzerland, over the Lake Of Lucern! LOL :biglaugh:
Help of course is free of charge :rofl_200:

Whats Rusty is saying, thats what Im always doing, at least always try to do -
a small pocket done by dremmel for futher use.

You know my beer friend, there are some special tools for that made by yamaha but... very expensive.


I can always draw a tool for you but you gonna need to find a machinist for that.
Aint gonna be cheap as well.

what if i rode a beer instead of the vmax?

anyways yea its the best way. not that i have a machinst to make the tool or anything but how would it work? just a verbal/text explanation would be fine.

 

[[email protected]]

agreed, like on the needle bearing on the rear wheel.

Never messed with the needle bearing yet but its coming soon. Are you saying there is a notch that allows you to use a punch on the needle bearing? If so, that would make life much easier.

I need to tear my wheel down to get it coated in the next couple weeks. I'm not really liking the purple color the wheel is right now :biglaugh:

 

[satariel666]

what if i rode a beer instead of the vmax?

anyways yea its the best way. not that i have a machinst to make the tool or anything but how would it work? just a verbal/text explanation would be fine.

Have you ever seen a collet for any end mill?
Tapered bolt inside.

Something like this: