Anyone use this Race Removal Tool?

[gamorg02]

Never messed with the needle bearing yet but its coming soon. Are you saying there is a notch that allows you to use a punch on the needle bearing? If so, that would make life much easier.

I need to tear my wheel down to get it coated in the next couple weeks. I'm not really liking the purple color the wheel is right now :biglaugh:

there was on the '85 wheel i took apart.

however all it did was tear off chunks of the race. i ended up clamping my blind bearing puller in there as hard as i could and i got it to move enough to clamp the teeth in between the seat and the race....

might be your trick.

Have you ever seen a collet for any end mill?
Tapered bolt inside.

Something like this:

i gotcha, so then that would expand against the race? seems like it'd still want to pop out vs drive the race out.

 

[satariel666]

there was on the '85 wheel i took apart.

however all it did was tear off chunks of the race. i ended up clamping my blind bearing puller in there as hard as i could and i got it to move enough to clamp the teeth in between the seat and the race....

might be your trick.



i gotcha, so then that would expand against the race? seems like it'd still want to pop out vs drive the race out.

This is how the yami special tool would look like.
While the collet will expand there should be enough grip to hold the wack.

 

[Fire-medic]

I have been to Lake Lucerne, I was there before the covered wooden bridge w/all the carvings burned down. The sculpture of the dying lion by Thorwaldson (?) carved into the mountain to commemorate the Swiss Guard defending the Pope to the last man is pretty impressive. Supposedly that is why even today the Swiss Guard has the job of defending/guarding the Pope, because of the Swiss soldiers' dedication all those years ago.

Seems like a grinding wheel to cut the outer race, being careful to not cut the steering head is within the skill-set of nearly anyone posting on here.
Then the grinding stone to create a pair of 180-degree opposed notches in the thickened portion of the steering head steel, like in a brake hub on a car/truck, to easily allow a change-out in the future, is the way to go. And, once you get the old race out, just cut all the way thru across it & use it for an installation driver.

Im officialy inviting you and you v-max to Switzerland, over the Lake Of Lucern! LOL :biglaugh:
Help of course is free of charge :rofl_200:

Whats Rusty is saying, thats what Im always doing, at least always try to do -
a small pocket done by dremmel for futher use.

You know my beer friend, there are some special tools for that made by yamaha but... very expensive.


I can always draw a tool for you but you gonna need to find a machinist for that.
Aint gonna be cheap as well.

 

[wlodek1980]

that tool won't work on a vmax or an fj or an xj... and being made of mild steel won't last long, hence the price probably

 

[gamorg02]

Stopped by autozone for to see if they had bigger adapters for their blind hole pullers. Had to rent the whole thing (free but $170 refundable deposit) and its still too small. I'm still planning on trying the dremel but figured id see if another technique was available. Wonder if there was a big enough puller thing if it'd work.

 

[Fire-medic]

I think you need to take a leap of faith and either heat it as Kyle suggested, or carefully cut across the inner portion (the tapered part the rollers contact) of the race. Take your time, wear safety glasses, do it w/lots of light so you can see what you are doing. A die grinder, either electric or pneumatic, w/a small wheel, maybe 3" (?) to start the cut, and when it seems to you as though you are close to the steering head, maybe use a Dremel to deepen the cut. eventually using the cutting method you are going to remove enough material that the race will be able to be removed because it no-longer fits tight.

 

[[email protected]]

If you don't have a welder, the "Dannymax Notch" is the way to go IMO. Very little grinding is needed. Just one little spot, not very deep. Just deep enough to let the edge of my punch grab. Once you can get a whack at it and it moves it progresses pretty fast.

Thanks for the idea Dan-O!

 

[gamorg02]

yea dremel method its gonna be. just wanted to 'think outside the box' for a minute... haha thanks guys!

 

[satariel666]

I have been to Lake Lucerne, I was there before the covered wooden bridge w/all the carvings burned down. The sculpture of the dying lion by Thorwaldson (?) carved into the mountain to commemorate the Swiss Guard defending the Pope to the last man is pretty impressive. Supposedly that is why even today the Swiss Guard has the job of defending/guarding the Pope, because of the Swiss soldiers' dedication all those years ago.

This Lake is so big that there are 4 cantons around it. Not sure what are you talking about cuz I just moved in. Can see the Lake from my window (200m).
Also I dont have much time for sightseeing.

 

[gamorg02]

well started this project, not going so great. i strarted grinding a small amount of the neck out so i could get a punch in but I still can't and it seems like its a lot to grind out. so i started seeing if i could cut the race out. made some progress but definitely nicked the stem a bit so i'm not happy with that method either. this job sucks haha

i wonder if something like this would work:

http://pitposse.com/ststberare.html

 

[Fire-medic]

Garrett, if you can grind enough to be able to expose a space after you can get a punch onto the edge of the outer race, then that should work. But, as has been pointed out earlier, once you can get the race moving, then you can get it out by using a drift pin to drive it out as you choose different places around the race's circumference on-which to hit it.

Pit Posse has lots of good tools at reasonable prices. I have purchased things from them and have also gotten prompt service from them on an order where I got two of one item (I only ordered one) but not another item I ordered, they promptly resolved the issue. I offered to send the other item back and they said, "keep it!"

They have a wheel bearing removal tool which is dirt-cheap & works very well, I recommend it if you are going to be disassembling your wheels.

 

[gamorg02]

i have a great blind bearing puller from HF which has worked great on wheels and the swingarm races.

i can get my drift/punch onto the race but it slides off as i hit it. those punches with a 'tooth' on them would probably work well.

here's a pic of how far i got. i got a chunk off but thats about it.

 

[[email protected]]

The spot you hit with the grinder looks a bit different than what I have. I only made my spot as wide as the grinding wheel. It is very narrow. I made it a bit longer (up/down) though.

I had issues with my punch slipping right off the race also. I took a look at the punch and noticed that the edges were slightly rounded. I ended up taking it to the bench grinder and squaring up the tip. It worked like a charm after that.

I use an alignment punch for this ( usually for removing wheel bearings too)

 

[gamorg02]

The spot you hit with the grinder looks a bit different than what I have. I only made my spot as wide as the grinding wheel. It is very narrow. I made it a bit longer (up/down) though.

I had issues with my punch slipping right off the race also. I took a look at the punch and noticed that the edges were slightly rounded. I ended up taking it to the bench grinder and squaring up the tip. It worked like a charm after that.

I use an alignment punch for this ( usually for removing wheel bearings too)

yea i tried making a little notch in mine but maybe i try to make it more of a point it will work. it 'looks' wide but the edges of it are barely touched. its mostly just down that one bit. how deep did you go? i did the 3 and 9 o clock points. did u have to make more than one?

my handlebars are still resting near the top so i may have to dismantle those to really help me get in there. tons of ideas online. most need at least a tiny lip though to work

one idea was heating up the inner race then putting the bottom of the neck in some water.

or possibly heating up the neck hoping it would loosen it...

i dunno

 

[[email protected]]

I removed the faux, set a towel on top of the airbox, removed the bars from the handle bar clamp, and put the handlebars on the airbox. Never disconnected any cables or anything.

I did one notch. It is at 6 o'clock if I were sitting on the bike looking down inside the steering tube. I guess it would be 6 o'clock looking up from underneath too :biglaugh:. My notch is not very deep. The punch just barely grabbed the race. I angled the punch thru the steering tube. Notch is at 6 o'clock so the top of my punch was at 12 o'clock. Looks kina like this l/l

 

[gamorg02]

I removed the faux, set a towel on top of the airbox, removed the bars from the handle bar clamp, and put the handlebars on the airbox. Never disconnected any cables or anything.

I did one notch. It is at 6 o'clock if I were sitting on the bike looking down inside the steering tube. I guess it would be 6 o'clock looking up from underneath too :biglaugh:. My notch is not very deep. The punch just barely grabbed the race. I angled the punch thru the steering tube. Notch is at 6 o'clock so the top of my punch was at 12 o'clock. Looks kina like this l/l

i might try 6 o clock too then soon. it was just enough for the punch to rest on it you say? and you didn't have a problem getting it out without hitting both sides?

my bars are sitll in the clamp. i'll remove them later it looks like! probably will have to take off the flyscreen too.

 

[[email protected]]

and you didn't have a problem getting it out without hitting both sides?

Once it started moving down I was able to get at it much easier

 

[gamorg02]

thanks for the help mike. i actually ordered this today:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/200696424238?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

i might see if it'll fit into the tiny grove. don't know if i've ever read anyone trying it before but lots of honda guys have where they run into the same issue, mainly on goldwings. we will see. give it a day to think about it, don't want to ruin my neck.

i have another idea for a similar tool as well. basically a giant blind bearing puller. tusk sells adapters for $15 that make it from 30, 35, 40 or 45 mm

 

[[email protected]]

That might work. Never saw one of those before.

 

[gamorg02]

That might work. Never saw one of those before.

i found it a couple days ago but for $60. $35 is just barely cheap enough for me to 'give it a try'. as opposed to 'grinding' i can't really do too much harm with it so i'll give it a try. its winter so i have time to work with it.

i appreciate the help. and i'm going to use more grinding/pounding as a 'almost last' resort.

figure if it works ask guys to put in $2 plus shipping to use it and we'll have another vmf tool to pass around.