Anyone use this Race Removal Tool?

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yea i'm not too worried about putting the new one in, its getting th eold one out.
Back in, I like to put the new bearing in the freezer for a while Garrett. Heat the area around the race holding area a bit too with a heat gun on high. The old race is perfect for a driver, like Kyle mentioned.
Steve
 
Back in, I like to put the new bearing in the freezer for a while Garrett. Heat the area around the race holding area a bit too with a heat gun on high. The old race is perfect for a driver, like Kyle mentioned.
Steve

My plan exactly if the race comes out in one piece
 
got the tool in today. very well made. the flanges are a bit too big. before i grind them down i'm thinking of trying to find a steel ring. best i can measure the recess i need to get into is 1mm deep by 1.5mm high. so if i can get a ring thats 1.5mm x 1.5mm or something, cut it and bend it out it might just work. otherwise i can grind the tool down a bit.

what a pita.
 
got the tool in today. very well made. the flanges are a bit too big. before i grind them down i'm thinking of trying to find a steel ring. best i can measure the recess i need to get into is 1mm deep by 1.5mm high. so if i can get a ring thats 1.5mm x 1.5mm or something, cut it and bend it out it might just work. otherwise i can grind the tool down a bit.

what a pita.
Send pics if you can?
I'm thinking my butane pencil torch on the center of the race will cook the heack out of it then tap on a notch I'll grind. That litttle torch will direct a very hot flame to a small area. If it works I'll post pics. I should be able to not effect the paint either, not that my pains that great
rofl_200.gif
 
got the tool in today. very well made. the flanges are a bit too big. before i grind them down i'm thinking of trying to find a steel ring. best i can measure the recess i need to get into is 1mm deep by 1.5mm high. so if i can get a ring thats 1.5mm x 1.5mm or something, cut it and bend it out it might just work. otherwise i can grind the tool down a bit.

what a pita.
What's that tool made of Garrrett?
 
Send pics if you can?
I'm thinking my butane pencil torch on the center of the race will cook the heack out of it then tap on a notch I'll grind. That litttle torch will direct a very hot flame to a small area. If it works I'll post pics. I should be able to not effect the paint either, not that my pains that great
rofl_200.gif

i will upload some a bit later today. hanging out with the fam. my how priorities change! hehe

What's that tool made of Garrrett?

hardened steel i believe.
 
SUCCESS!

i ground down the tool to fit in the tiny recess. it fit, barely.

then the problem was when i tightened the bolt (actually loosened to expand it, but i digress) the top where the flanges were would become bowed in and not be parallel. so after a few attempts i got a piece of metal (it ended up being a nut) about .5mm smaller than the gap between the 'halves' where the notches were sitting in the recess. then took a chisel and used it to wedge the nut in between so the top part couldn't bow in at all.

then heated up the stem with a heat gun and slammed it from above with a big ass screwdriver and out it came.

very happy. then the bearing came right off the triple tree very easily. just ground a notch and as i tapped it i hit it at a slight angle so it started to rotate up and off.

pic attached of tool ground down on left half and in its stock form on the right.
 

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Good going on the persistence.

So now are you going to grind a couple of notches in the thickened portion of the neck so you have a relief in-which to place your drift punch, 'next time?'

SUCCESS!

i ground down the tool to fit in the tiny recess. it fit, barely.

then the problem was when i tightened the bolt (actually loosened to expand it, but i digress) the top where the flanges were would become bowed in and not be parallel. so after a few attempts i got a piece of metal (it ended up being a nut) about .5mm smaller than the gap between the 'halves' where the notches were sitting in the recess. then took a chisel and used it to wedge the nut in between so the top part couldn't bow in at all.

then heated up the stem with a heat gun and slammed it from above with a big ass screwdriver and out it came.

very happy. then the bearing came right off the triple tree very easily. just ground a notch and as i tapped it i hit it at a slight angle so it started to rotate up and off.

pic attached of tool ground down on left half and in its stock form on the right.
 
Good going on the persistence.

So now are you going to grind a couple of notches in the thickened portion of the neck so you have a relief in-which to place your drift punch, 'next time?'

honestly? probably not. it was pretty easy once i wedged something in with this tool.

cutting the steering stem just doesn't leave me all warm and fuzzy for whatever reason.
 
How 'bout the race on the steering stem? I seem to remember having a dickens of a time getting that off too, I think I had to remove it with a die grinder.....
 
How 'bout the race on the steering stem? I seem to remember having a dickens of a time getting that off too, I think I had to remove it with a die grinder.....

that one was pretty easy

dremeled a slot and put a chisel in it. people said it would crack but when i hit it, it just started to spin off.
 
that one was pretty easy

dremeled a slot and put a chisel in it. people said it would crack but when i hit it, it just started to spin off.

Cool, I didn't try that, once I started in on it with a die grinder I just kept going, probably would have come off easier than I thought....
 
Cool, I didn't try that, once I started in on it with a die grinder I just kept going, probably would have come off easier than I thought....

yea if i were to do it again i'd make a notch at 45? so when i hit it i'd want to rotate. could have just been my luck for once!
 

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