Bike STILL wobbles at speed

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The bike is secured in a Frame Jig and them pressure applied to bend everything into alignment. No heat was applied to any of the bikes I've had straightened and the frames came back with out marks.

Hmmmm... It was over 10 years ago when I checked this out at a Computrak near Dallas. It was closed years ago. Only open a couple years. Anyway, they told me about the heating and specifically said they do not repaint the frame, that it was my responsibility. Wonder what was changed? Maybe they came up with a better system. Do they still use lasers for measurement?
 
A half worn repaired tire that is leaking air pressure is a compromised tire and is putting your safety at risk. Especially at the speeds you have noted.

Get that tire replaced now before you ride the bike again at any speed, no excuses! Do not even try to justify running that tire/bike any further without first replacing the tire. Just concerned for your safety.
 
Hmmmm... It was over 10 years ago when I checked this out at a Computrak near Dallas. It was closed years ago. Only open a couple years. Anyway, they told me about the heating and specifically said they do not repaint the frame, that it was my responsibility. Wonder what was changed? Maybe they came up with a better system. Do they still use lasers for measurement?



They still use a laser and check a couple hundred points on the frame. The neck on one of mine was not straight up and down and was causing the front wheel to be tipped to the left. Heat would make the frame soft where heated and would burn wires during straightening. Maybe that's why the Dallas office closed. I take mine to LA where they do a lot of work for the racing people. Anyway it's the best mod and usually the first I do when getting a new bike. Spurs
 
They still use a laser and check a couple hundred points on the frame. The neck on one of mine was not straight up and down and was causing the front wheel to be tipped to the left. Heat would make the frame soft where heated and would burn wires during straightening. Maybe that's why the Dallas office closed. I take mine to LA where they do a lot of work for the racing people. Anyway it's the best mod and usually the first I do when getting a new bike. Spurs

What does something like that cost?
 
What does something like that cost?

i think someone said $600, but i think a basic 'measurement only' at the local one here is $100 to let you know whats out of line, then they quote from there, depending on how much work it needs.

if interested danny i'm sure we could set something up, its only about 15 minutes from me.
 
Does anyone know where the closest one to Pgh. I'd really be curious to see how straightly bike is.
 
The website lists one in Scranton.

I know, I know the tire should be replaced. Then again, I'm in a bit of a pinch for cash, and I can't bring myself to throw out a tire with at least a couple thousand of life left.

I'll make sure to regularly check the pressure, do lots of rolling burnouts, and keep the triple digit hijinks to a minimum. Maybe as it's about kicked I'll make a burnout vid or something.
 
i MY HATS OFF TO " RA " FOR BEING HONEST ABOUT HIS TIRE PRESSURE BEING LOW AND WHY ! .. I HOPE THAT THE PRESSURE WAS THE PROBLEM , THIS WAY YOU NO THAT REPLACING THE BACK TIRE WILL BE A VERY WISE DECISION , AND SINCE IT APPEARS THAT YOUR AVERAGE RIDING SPEED IS ABOUT 117 MPH'S , THATS INCLUDING STOPPING AT RED LIGHTS AND TOLLS , I THINK IT WOULD BE A GOOD MOVE TO REPLACE IT ! .:rofl_200:. AFTER ALL , I WANT TO TALK TO YOU , FACE TO FACE AT THE BROWNIE RUN , NOT TALK ABOUT YOU , HOPING YOUR GOING TO BE ALRIGHT ! .. :punk:
 
I pulled the plug and re-did it, since in one day it was back down to about 20psi...lost 15lbs overnight. Aired it up again, see if it holds. If it continues to lose air, I guess I'll have to cough up some $ and just replace it.

See ya in a couple weeks Tim!
 
I pulled the plug and re-did it, since in one day it was back down to about 20psi...lost 15lbs overnight. Aired it up again, see if it holds. If it continues to lose air, I guess I'll have to cough up some $ and just replace it.

See ya in a couple weeks Tim!

tires are generally cheaper than ER visit co-pays.
 
The bike is secured in a Frame Jig and them pressure applied to bend everything into alignment. No heat was applied to any of the bikes I've had straightened and the frames came back with out marks. You have to remove the pipes, air box cover, side scoops and front fender to align it correctly. One way to tell how far these bikes are off from the factory is some guys put a 170 rear tire on without the washer swap and some have to use the washer. If the rear wheel is cocked in the swingarm to the left you will need a washer swap if it's cocked to the right you won't.

That's it? I always figured you had to bring them the bare frame....this certainly makes the process a lot more attractive!
 
The problem is better than it used to be for sure after new bearings/lowering, but I still have to sit "just so" on the bike to avoid wobble....as in totally upright...butt against the fuel door, stay loose on the bars, and feet on the forward pegs(this makes a HUGE difference for whatever reason). Then I can usually get it up to the 120+ zone without any shake, had it to 140 yesterday and it started to wiggle a bit.

At the rate I'm pouring money in this bike to keep fixing all the **** that keeps breaking/going bad, I might as well buy a new bike, which I'm thinking about doing. Just to me, it's like I'm paying for all of Yamaha's ****-ups. I just never stop fiddling with this bike. Which normally I don't mind, but when I look back at my '85 Magna, which I never had to touch the entire time I owned it, this '97 Vmax seems like kind of a POS in the reliability department. It's never left me stranded or had any big major breakdowns, but it's doing it's damndest to broke me $20 at a time by nagging me to death with little problems.
 
The problem is better than it used to be for sure after new bearings/lowering, but I still have to sit "just so" on the bike to avoid wobble....as in totally upright...butt against the fuel door, stay loose on the bars, and feet on the forward pegs(this makes a HUGE difference for whatever reason). Then I can usually get it up to the 120+ zone without any shake, had it to 140 yesterday and it started to wiggle a bit.

At the rate I'm pouring money in this bike to keep fixing all the **** that keeps breaking/going bad, I might as well buy a new bike, which I'm thinking about doing. Just to me, it's like I'm paying for all of Yamaha's ****-ups. I just never stop fiddling with this bike. Which normally I don't mind, but when I look back at my '85 Magna, which I never had to touch the entire time I owned it, this '97 Vmax seems like kind of a POS in the reliability department. It's never left me stranded or had any big major breakdowns, but it's doing it's damndest to broke me $20 at a time by nagging me to death with little problems.

C'mon, "Ra," you have to treat this bike like a 'high-maintenance' girlfriend!

 
Yeah, I suppose. At the same time that makes a strong case for staying single.

The single biggest difference in stability is if I put my feet out on the crash bar pegs. Do that, stable all day long. Tucked in on the normal pegs, it usually gets squirrely around 110-120. When I got a new rear tire that seemed to help a bit also.

I've finally got most of the bugs hammered out of it now though. The blinkers blink like they're supposed to, the midrange hesitation seems to have been helped by the "equalize vacuum" mod, and a few other little quirks I fixed in the insurance repairs.
 
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