Bike STILL wobbles at speed

[Barry barker]

Do you still have the rubber washer between the head bearing castle nuts?

If so, this could explain why your bike handled correctly right after you got it back from the shop, then went back to its old ways after a few rides. Just curious!

 

[RaWarrior]

No, the bike had a metal washer from the time I got it. The p/o said he had done the furbur fix, which at the time I had no idea what that meant.

I definitely prefer the feel of the bike with the forks slid up about 3/4". Steering feels much quicker, turn-in is easier as well.

When I'm hauling ass, I have my feet on the forward pegs(this makes a huge difference as opposed to the regular control pegs), hunkered down over the faux tank, butt against the fuel door, with a purposely loose grip on the bars. Generally I can go as fast as I want like this without issues. Sometimes a slight bump in the road will upset it and I have to back off. I also have to "run up" in fifth gear, since the torque action of a 4-5 shift at 130mph will upset it as well.

I haven't checked the head bearings since last summer, so I suppose it can't hurt to inspect again. Though I indexed the nut location with a sharpie, and the lines have not shifted. The tires are at stock pressure (32/36 iirc), and the rear preload is maxed out, PCW suggested this since a lot of weight is put on the back wheel at high speed from wind drag, and a squishy setup will make the front end too light which causes wobble. I guess the idea is to keep as much weight on the front wheel as possible.

 

[naughtyG]

I haven't checked the head bearings since last summer, so I suppose it can't hurt to inspect again. Though I indexed the nut location with a sharpie, and the lines have not shifted. The tires are at stock pressure (32/36 iirc), and the rear preload is maxed out, PCW suggested this since a lot of weight is put on the back wheel at high speed from wind drag, and a squishy setup will make the front end too light which causes wobble. I guess the idea is to keep as much weight on the front wheel as possible.

You know what's interesting, when I first got my '86 (with totally fubar bearings only I didn't know) I had a really bad 120+ wobble, but with higher preload on the rear it was worse! Also, never felt it when riding two-up, and that's more weight on the rear.. Hmm :ummm:

Good point and I agree, but the rubber washer dosn't work as designed. The bottom nut loosens up during riding because the rubber washer deforms under this torque, now you have loose head bearings. My experience with the rubber washer has always been one of continuing maintenance. The aluminum or steel washer is a set it and forget it. In fact, i do not even have a washer anymore. 2 castle nuts, a lock spline, and a triple tree nut.

I see what you mean now. Yea, I think it's prolly best to use the top castle nut as a lock nut for the bottom one, and forget about the washer or just leave it on top of the nuts as a spacer.

 

[Barry barker]

You know what's interesting, when I first got my '86 (with totally fubar bearings only I didn't know) I had a really bad 120+ wobble, but with higher preload on the rear it was worse! Also, never felt it when riding two-up, and that's more weight on the rear.. Hmm

:ummm:
I think this also puts more weight on the front, even though it is hard to believe. Your not the first person I have heard comment that two up riding eliminates their wobble. i am with you:ummm:

Since you have the stock shocks maxed out on preload, this may be too stiff as mentioned above. They are not the best shocks for damping. Try them in the middle for a while see if that helps. We need to get this resolved, high speed riding on hwy pegs is dangerous.IMO.

That quicker steering you like can also be compounding your high speed wobble. Its all about compromise.

 

[sdt354]

If things get hairy at speed, which isn't often, I lay right across the lid, try not to put a death grip on the bars and let the bike come out of it on it's own. Head bearings are adjusted yearly. They never need much tightening though. Progressive springs and a brace have made me more secure in the twisties and braking. The Vmax has it's limitations, I try not to test them everytime I ride. I'm prolly ready for bushings in my fork legs too. And, lowered slightly when it's apart. If I did it over again I think a different front end would have been more of a priority.
Steve-o

 

[Barry barker]

Steve/ Ra, do you have delrin motor mounts? These are a cheap purchase and a huge improvement in handling. As we all know, they are very difficult to install. The 2 lowers require almost removing the engine. I did mine and would do it again. Really need two people for the lowers.

 

[naughtyG]

I did the delrin ones on my '86, and will do them again on my '00 - getting a set from Kyle.

They're not *easy* to install, but I found it easier than I originally thought. Did it alone too if I remember right, it's all about having a couple of decent jacks..

There's a great 'how to' here as well, I guess that's what made it a cinch for me. All hail VMF

 

[RaWarrior]

No, I have stock rubber mounts, but I do have the weld-a-tab style frame braces. I never have even the slightest hint of wobble or instability except for these top-end speeds. Rock solid otherwise, I can coast "no handed" and it's totally steady and straight.


Next time I'm home....not until May ...... I'll try turning down the preload and see if that helps any. I don't remember what the damper was set at, though I do remember trying both 1 and 4 and not noticing even the slightest difference.

Any suggestions to this are appreciated, I had long run out of things to try.

 

[naughtyG]

When was the last time you tore into the head bearings to really see/feel how they are?

I'll always remember being totally shocked by how rough my '86 ones felt once I'd removed the wheel and forks etc, whereas with all that weight on they actually felt ok. Something to try..

 

[RaWarrior]

The head bearings were replaced with OEM Yamaha ones last summer, they're not even a year old and have maybe 5k miles on them.

 

[Crazy Bender]

Not sure about the Max but on the V-Rod's we had the same issue on ever other bike. Upon being driven to figure it out I found that there was an adjuster (behind the radiator) that was conected to the two front frame rails. After several ajustments in/out and everything in between I was able to knock out the speed wobble and it would only come back upon road conditions at top speed. I will look into my max and see what they have in place. Im hoping it might be the same set up as the Rod.

I will be in touch gentlemen!!

 

[naughtyG]

The head bearings were replaced with OEM Yamaha ones last summer, they're not even a year old and have maybe 5k miles on them.

Those sure should be just fine.. :confused2:

 

[del3000]

Had the same problem right after I installed a new front tire. I took it back to get rebalanced and no difference. I took it to another shop and they balanced on their machine and problem solved. The original shops balancer was not accurate.

 

[DakRatFink]

As I staed in another thread, I had some "bounce" to my front end when jacked up and tightened the nuts on the head bearing accordingly. The only problem I had BEFORE the adjustment was a slight decell wobble around 50-45 mph. Tightening the bearings to where the fork does not bounce corrected this but now I have a pretty hairy wobble at 115+.
Since the only variable here is tightening the head bearings I am gonna assume the problem is over tightening.
It is a little too wet and slick out today to do any 100+ mph runs to test my attempts at fixes. Luckily I have another week of post deployment
R&R before I go back to work to try to sort it.
Wish me luck.

 

[TxVMax]

I had this issue and almost didn't buy my 2005 because of that when I test rode it. Took it to a known dealer and he said it would be fine with new tires and balancing. That's exactly what he did and I haven't had a problem so far. It really bothered me , the wobble when you eased on the bars and let the bike de-accelerate . Kinda scared me to be honest.
Good luck in solving your issue.

 

[DakRatFink]

I had this issue and almost didn't buy my 2005 because of that when I test rode it. Took it to a known dealer and he said it would be fine with new tires and balancing. That's exactly what he did and I haven't had a problem so far. It really bothered me , the wobble when you eased on the bars and let the bike de-accelerate . Kinda scared me to be honest.
Good luck in solving your issue.

Thanks, man.

Esp frustrating since I rode all year without the problem last year.
Also frustrating 'cause I should be coming up on some $ for a few mods soon but I don't really want to add any power until I know my suspension is acting " like it should ".

 

[RaWarrior]

Well, after around 400 miles this weekend, it seems that turning the preload down and the damping up on the rear shocks made a noticeable difference.

Previously......preload 4(max), damping 2

Now.....preload 2, damping 4 (max)

Despite the preload being lower, the ride seems a bit stiffer from the higher damping rate. However, on several runs to 130+, I had no wobbles, keeping my feet tucked in on the normal pegs. I actually touched 145 on a long wind out and it was steady.

I should note at the same time I removed the OEM flyscreen.

 

[Barry barker]

Well, after around 400 miles this weekend, it seems that turning the preload down and the damping up on the rear shocks made a noticeable difference.

Previously......preload 4(max), damping 2

Now.....preload 2, damping 4 (max)

Despite the preload being lower, the ride seems a bit stiffer from the higher damping rate. However, on several runs to 130+, I had no wobbles, keeping my feet tucked in on the normal pegs. I actually touched 145 on a long wind out and it was steady.

I should note at the same time I removed the OEM flyscreen.

This is good news, glad to hear we have made some progress:clapping:.