Carb synch issue

[Fire-medic]

A word to the wise, you better buy parts now, for whatever you're planning to do in the future, because of the longshoremens' strike. You are in for a long wait if this runs into months, and then once it's settled, there will be a big backlog. Don't forget paper towels and T.P.!

The All Balls is for 4 carburetors, as is the Parts Unlimited. The K & L is 1 carb, so you need 4.

I normally advise against the 'all four carburetors in one kit' sets, from no-name suppliers, but All Balls and Parts Unlimited are reputable. It would be interesting to have someone try All Balls, someone else try P.U. and a third try K & L, and see how things turn out. I've used All Balls and Parts Unlimited parts before but never for carburetors. I do use and recommend K & L.

I was just in Grand Rapids, but I didn't do any parts shopping. Just vacationing, and that includes boating. I also rode my friend's BMW R1150GS, which I now know is too-tall and big for me, especially off-road. It's something like ~20 lbs less than a VMax Gen. 1! Nothing I'd want to pick-up in the dirt.

 

[Relic]

Thanks for that. I see three choices for repair kits. An economy from K&L, one Parts Unlimited, and one from All Balls.

https://www.partsgiant.com/motorcycle/fuel-systems?f=116151

Mark

I got the K&L kits. From what these forum guys recommended. Bought the new main jets at the local yamaha dealer. I put in 150's My bike runs fine now.
Stay away from the eBay kits. As the others have said, pure junk. Many of the parts weren't correct. All four float needle tips swelled up and disintegrated as soon as the fuel hit them.

 

[Tchatcho]

Hello everyone.
In my last carbs cleaning I had exactly the same problem referred to at the beginning by racerboy. It was impossible to synchronize, I only got it by adding a small thickness of coca-cola can at the end of the synchronization screw.
In the last vehicle control they told me that the motorcycle was polluting, and in fact it smells a lot of gasoline in the exhausts although it goes WONDRFULLY and the spark plugs are not entirely bad for me.
This happened after a disassembly of carburetors, and seeing that it is going well at the moment (and for 6 months) I was thinking of buying a new kit for the next review.
The question I want to ask is: how often do you usually require a new complete carburetor kit? The current one is a Keyster that is already two years old and about 15,000 miles.
Greetings to everyone.

 

[Fire-medic]

Keyster is likely your problem. Either OEM, or K & L.





https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/one-cylinder-running-rich.53848/#post-539508

 

[Tchatcho]

Keyster is likely your problem. Either OEM, or K & L.

View attachment 95662

View attachment 95663

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/one-cylinder-running-rich.53848/#post-539508

Hello Fire-Medic. Sorry for answering late but I have a lot of work. Thank you for your advice, I'm already buying parts for the next review, for now the OEM jets... but about my question; do you have any answer?
How often do the max require a change of jets and how often of carb rubbers?
I would also like to know, since there are so many threads in the forum, is there any specific one about regulating the carburetion step by step? No matter how much I search, I can't find anything specific, but it's true that I don't have much time to investigate calmly
Greetings from Cabo Verde!

 

[MaxMidnight]

How often do the max require a change of jets and how often of carb rubbers?
I would also like to know, since there are so many threads in the forum, is there any specific one about regulating the carburetion step by step? No matter how much I search, I can't find anything specific, but it's true that I don't have much time to investigate calmly
Greetings from Cabo Verde!

Forgive me if this sounds sarcastic, it isn't meant to be.
The simple answer is when they are beyond their service life.
For the components you mention this would be after many tens of thousands of miles but there is no definitive answer how long that may be and will vary from bike to bike.
Jets tend to wear oval and may be visible to the naked eye or with the carb needle inserted and a light shone from the other side which should show up any ovality.
Carb rubbers would, under normal operating conditions, only be replaced if they are damaged.

Not quite sure what you mean by 'regulating the carburetion step by step'...do you mean in which order are the jets adjusted?

If so the two attachments may help.

 

[Traumahawk]

Forgive me if this sounds sarcastic, it isn't meant to be.
The simple answer is when they are beyond their service life.
For the components you mention this would be after many tens of thousands of miles but there is no definitive answer how long that may be and will vary from bike to bike.
Jets tend to wear oval and may be visible to the naked eye or with the carb needle inserted and a light shone from the other side which should show up any ovality.
Carb rubbers would, under normal operating conditions, only be replaced if they are damaged.

Not quite sure what you mean by 'regulating the carburetion step by step'...do you mean in which order are the jets adjusted?

If so the two attachments may help.

Exactly.

The jets don't wear out. A lot of the brass can become damaged from being taken out....put in with the incorrect screw drivers, or the threads will become damaged from being mis threaded. The correct size tools are worth their weight in gold.

The rubber parts will become dried out and not compliant anymore and so don't do their job of keeping fuel out....or keeping fuel in.

 

[Tchatcho]

Perfect!! Thank you very much for the answer, it's obvious! I came to think that they continuously required packaging changes every certain mileage…
It is logical then that I suffer from some bad adjustment and those documents are a great help; until today I had not found them in the forum. Thank you!

 

[Fire-medic]

Traumahawk gave you a good common-sense answer. Things wear-out. When they do, replace them. The replacement items should be OEM, or from a well-known supplier. I don't like Keyster.

Use the factory service manual and do it as they say. The work is easy to follow and if you have a problem/question the forum will have an answer, or answers.

 

[Joss]

Well, from experience as long an every is air tight all should be ok. Balancing takes a while… Oem or not. 20mins at least.you’ll think you’re way off just stick with it turns up on the tick over etc. it will come.