because of the extra 1/8" washer on the inner race? couldnt' one also take the 1/'8" off the bearing inner race?
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because of the extra 1/8" washer on the inner race? couldnt' one also take the 1/'8" off the bearing inner race?
Yes, because of the washer swap.
u think it matters which part the 1/8" gets taken off?
Think you'll get all messed up by removing 1/8" Garrett.
While the washer is about 1/8" moving it to the other side of the wheel doesn't move the wheel out the full washer thickness. The washer does not have a large enough O.D. to sit on the wheel, it actually sits on the inner race.
While the washer is about 1/8" moving it to the other side of the wheel doesn't move the wheel out the full washer thickness. The washer does not have a large enough O.D. to sit on the wheel, it actually sits on the inner race.
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doesn't the inner race sit on the spacer #3 though, so if spacer #3 was cut, the inner race would recede into the wheel slightly and the washer would then rest on the seal?
If you cut enough off #3 that's exactly what would happen.
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i don't know if i'd want that either then eh?
i assume in a stock config the inner race is just free flowing? doesn't hit the final drive at all?
is there any pressure really against the seal if its seated properly?
Here's how it goes:
Starting on the brake caliper side, the shoulder in the axle rests against part #22 on the Rear Wheel fiche.
#22 rests against #7 on the Rear Brake fiche
#7 against #6 on Rear Brake fiche
#6 against the inner race on bearing #6 on Rear Wheel fiche
then bearing #6 against flange spacer #@, bearing spacer #3, collar or inner race #5 to guide collar #5 on the Drive Shaft fiche.
Then the washer plate #20 and self-locking nut #21 on the other end of the axle holding everything in place.
Rear Wheel fiche http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...0/Model/VMX12/GroupID/240452/Group/REAR_WHEEL
Rear Brake fiche http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...0/Model/VMX12/GroupID/240439/Group/REAR_BRAKE
Drive Shaft fiche http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm.../Model/VMX12/GroupID/240432/Group/DRIVE_SHAFT
Minimize the fiches and it is easy to follow. The torque is applied to the inner spacers with the exception of the ball bearing inside the caliper bracket, I don't see how any binding can happen on the needle bearing at all.
Dumb question but, do you have collar #6 in properly with the smaller end against the inner race of the ball bearing?
Starting on the brake caliper side, the shoulder in the axle rests against part #22 on the Rear Wheel fiche.
#22 rests against #7 on the Rear Brake fiche
#7 against #6 on Rear Brake fiche
#6 against the inner race on bearing #6 on Rear Wheel fiche
then bearing #6 against flange spacer #@, bearing spacer #3, collar or inner race #5 to guide collar #5 on the Drive Shaft fiche.
Then the washer plate #20 and self-locking nut #21 on the other end of the axle holding everything in place.
Rear Wheel fiche http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...0/Model/VMX12/GroupID/240452/Group/REAR_WHEEL
Rear Brake fiche http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm...0/Model/VMX12/GroupID/240439/Group/REAR_BRAKE
Drive Shaft fiche http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm.../Model/VMX12/GroupID/240432/Group/DRIVE_SHAFT
Minimize the fiches and it is easy to follow. The torque is applied to the inner spacers with the exception of the ball bearing inside the caliper bracket, I don't see how any binding can happen on the needle bearing at all.
Dumb question but, do you have collar #6 in properly with the smaller end against the inner race of the ball bearing?
as far as your last quesiton, yup.
MY setup is as follows:
Here's how it goes:
Starting on the brake caliper side, the shoulder in the axle rests against part #7 on the Rear Brake fiche
#7 against #6 on Rear Brake fiche
#6 against the inner race on bearing #6 on Rear Wheel fiche
then bearing #6 against flange spacer #@, bearing spacer #3, collar or inner race #5 rests against #22 on rear wheel microfiche which rests on guide collar #5 on the Drive Shaft fiche.
Then the washer plate #20 and self-locking nut #21 on the other end of the axle holding everything in place.
Yup, just #22 washer swap, that's ok. Did you get bearings, spacers & seals for an '85 wheel? Not sure that would matter tho.
bearings and seals were ordered from Sean/online. all have identical part numbers 85-07
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Ya gyus are crazy, 3 pages today LOL to much to read :rofl_200:
So Garret, how things goin?
So Garret, how things goin?
haha. well the creak may still be there. if it is its so slight i can barely hear it.
not sure what else to do so i'll probably just take it apart and check it next weekend or something
the issue now is that if i tighten it down to anything over 40 ft lbs the resistance gets pretty noticeable in the rear wheel. it could be well within spec, but i'm not sure. so i just clamped the nut to 35 ft lbs and put the pinch nut to spec. i know a lot of guys who run that rear nut at not torque.
since doing the washer swap means the washer SITS on the inner race of the needle bearing, not the wheel hub, its probably the extra pressure there, where as before the inner race didn't hit anything on that end or did ever so slightly.
i'm not sure what takign a 1/8" off the internal spacer or the inner race would do, seems then the washer would just rest on the hub itself which i don't think I want either, at least now its not binding, and on something thats meant to turn.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Id say leave this while the snow is not there and enjoy riding.
Just like I do!
Its a holiday here today.
You wil have much time over the winter.
Id say diassemble evrything what Ya can LOL
Just like I do!
Its a holiday here today.
You wil have much time over the winter.
Id say diassemble evrything what Ya can LOL
The inner race meets the guide collar which goes thru the diff to the axle washer and nut. When torque is applied there is a lot of force against the inner race. Actually, the same exact amount whether the washer is swapped or not.
Garrett, pretty sure you will be shooting yourself in the foot if you take 1/8" off the bearing spacer.
haha what a diplomatic way to say "shut up and ride it!"
i think we might be on the same page!
i think we might be on the same page![/QUOTE]
And that's a GOOD thing!! :biglaugh:
Wonder what would happen if you put a few hundred on it, then snug it up another 10# or so, if it doesn't creak do a few hundred and repeat.
Just a thought.
Everybody will be happy to hear that I have told you everything I know about this subject and I now know.....nothing!! :rofl_200:
And that's a GOOD thing!! :biglaugh:
Wonder what would happen if you put a few hundred on it, then snug it up another 10# or so, if it doesn't creak do a few hundred and repeat.
Just a thought.
Everybody will be happy to hear that I have told you everything I know about this subject and I now know.....nothing!! :rofl_200:
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Who said who said eeee howd didya find out :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:
soooooooooo. the creaking is def back. not as bad as before but still there. so my theory on the wheel rubbing causing it to be off was not right. i have one more thing to try one night this week when i can feel my hands...
gonna try jacking the axle up so it lines up higher than it should, maybe that'll help. should certain prove if the weight of the assembly is dragging it down.
gonna try jacking the axle up so it lines up higher than it should, maybe that'll help. should certain prove if the weight of the assembly is dragging it down.
jedi-
Well-Known Member
I have only skimped over a few of the posts so I might be posting something that's been said previously..
Make sure that all the integral spacers are long enough to be doing what they should be doing. The axle pulls up everything thru the centre of the bearings versus the collars or spacers that face up against them. If for example the sleeve or collar call it what you like, if it was too short then tightening the axle will make the bearings go tight as pressure is exerted to bearing race rather than the centre of the bearing. It would be tight and tend to creak as you describe.
The wheel should never feel tight.
Check the long sleeve between the bearings inside the wheel and even add a shim to it and test it again.
Make sure that all the integral spacers are long enough to be doing what they should be doing. The axle pulls up everything thru the centre of the bearings versus the collars or spacers that face up against them. If for example the sleeve or collar call it what you like, if it was too short then tightening the axle will make the bearings go tight as pressure is exerted to bearing race rather than the centre of the bearing. It would be tight and tend to creak as you describe.
The wheel should never feel tight.
Check the long sleeve between the bearings inside the wheel and even add a shim to it and test it again.
