Flywheel puller failed; bolt stuck........

[one2dmax]

Either try what is being mentioned or get the longer jaw puller. They make them and probably a tractor supply or farm store might be your best place to check. I have a friend with one if we need to borrow it and ship it out. It's huge and heavy though.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

With pullers, the closer your attachment points are to the fitted/shrunk on section, the more efficient they are. This is why the original arrangement, with the plate-type puller, is the O.E.M. suggested method. But with the broken-off stud, a plate puller cannot be used. But maybe so........
Another idea. Again, I have no personal experience, just going by the photos and the Clymer manual.
The photos of the flywheel show 6 equidistant holes thru the outer diameter of the wheel (I suppose for lightening purposes?) - are these holes accessible from the back? i.e., "with about 1/2"-5/8" clearance"
It looks like they are. Page 141 of the Clymer, figure 41, shows the back of the flywheel with the starter clutch assembly still attached. The clutch assembly appears to be about 1/2" thick, which accounts for the clearance between the wheel and the clutch gear.
If this is correct, your'e back in business! Forget about a jaw-type puller, make yourself a heavy-duty plate type. This would involve making six pieces of steel plate, as thick as possible (1/2"-5/8") which can be slipped behind the flywheel, inline with the holes. Each plate has a tapped hole in it, using the largest diameter posible(looks like 1/2"?) Instead of making plates, you may be able to use heavy-wall nuts, if there is enough room to slip these in. But plates would be better - more contact area.
With these in place, now you have attachment points for your hardened puller bolts. Next you make a matching "backing" plate, out of 1/2" thick metal (the thicker the better), with 6 thru-holes, to match the diameter of the puller bolts. Because the flywheel holes are at the outer diameter of the wheel, the puller bolts/backing plate assembly has to be long enough to extend well beyond the outer face of the wheel,(to allow clearance for the flywheel, when it pops off) and the backing plate will consequently be of bigger diameter as well.
Now all that remains is a tapped hole, as large as possible (5/8"- 3/4"?), in the centre of the backing plate. Use a fine thread tap (and bolt of course), if possible. Less chance of pulling the threads out, when in use. Then assemble all to the flywheel, tighten as much as possible , and give the removal bolt a good whack. Tighten again, whack again, etc., until the flywheel pops. As mentioned previously,use heat, but as a last resort. A six-bolt plate puller should do the trick!
I realize all this fabrication, and the materials needed, may be beyond the capabililities of your own workshop, but this would all be "a snap" for any machine shop. I can't imagine the fabrication time being more than a couple hours. But this would save the cost of purchasing another jawed puller, which may not work.
Cheers, Miles

unfortunately those 6 equi-distant holes don't go thru the other side. see attached pic 1

whats interesting is what the haynes manual says about the whole thing (pic 2)

 

[gamorg02]

Either try what is being mentioned or get the longer jaw puller. They make them and probably a tractor supply or farm store might be your best place to check. I have a friend with one if we need to borrow it and ship it out. It's huge and heavy though.

Sean

thanks for the offer sean, is this from the tractor pull guy?! haha.

i found this locally:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...-2-frasl-3-jaw-reversible-gear-puller-3835250

didn't even realize there was a tractor supply store nearby (about 40 mins/20 miles)

gotta hit it up tomorrow.

 

[one2dmax]

Not the tractor puller guy but another friend that is big into Alice Chalmers tractors. The one he has is probably 2-3 times that size. The one a TS though looks like it might do what you want it to!

Sean

 

[Miles Long]

unfortunately those 6 equi-distant holes don't go thru the other side. see attached pic 1

whats interesting is what the haynes manual says about the whole thing (pic 2)

Weird! The Clymer manual has several photos of the flywheel on the bike, the thru holes are clearly seen, unlike in the Haines book. Different model years/part numbers? In any case, I have on 03 like yours, so I might have to go thru your trials and tribulations, if I have to remove my wheel. I'll be interested to find out how you finally get your wheel off!
Miles

 

[gamorg02]

Not the tractor puller guy but another friend that is big into Alice Chalmers tractors. The one he has is probably 2-3 times that size. The one a TS though looks like it might do what you want it to!

Sean

well if this one cracks breaks whatever i'll probably be giving you a call for it.

if you were in my shoes would you be trying a jaw puller?

Weird! The Clymer manual has several photos of the flywheel on the bike, the thru holes are clearly seen, unlike in the Haines book. Different model years/part numbers? In any case, I have on 03 like yours, so I might have to go thru your trials and tribulations, if I have to remove my wheel. I'll be interested to find out how you finally get your wheel off!
Miles

thats possible, i bet sean would know. those holes are barely big enough to get a zip tie through which holds the clutch together so i don't loose parts, nowhere near big enough for a bolt to go through. that doesn't mean i couldnt' dril and tap other holes or put nuts behind them elsewhere potentially. but i think at that point i might as well use the jaw puller as they would have to be outside the starter clutch.

i don't have access to a clymer, can you upload that pic?

 

[RaWarrior]

If you have any farmers nearby, chances are they have a collection of "big" tools for their tractors. I live right next to a dairy farm at home and have popped over there several times when I need a big-ass socket or such. It's like a regular workshop, except all the tools are like 3x regular size for the tractors. I remember seeing an assortment of ginormous two and three jaw pullers. Farmers tend to be pretty friendly also...I buried my truck in mud out in the fields behind my house and I got him to pull me out with his tractor lol

Otherwise check McMaster....that place has everything.

Yep, they do.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#gear-pullers/=avzlm0

 

[gamorg02]

If you have any farmers nearby, chances are they have a collection of "big" tools for their tractors. I live right next to a dairy farm at home and have popped over there several times when I need a big-ass socket or such. It's like a regular workshop, except all the tools are like 3x regular size for the tractors. I remember seeing an assortment of ginormous two and three jaw pullers. Farmers tend to be pretty friendly also...I buried my truck in mud out in the fields behind my house and I got him to pull me out with his tractor lol

Otherwise check McMaster....that place has everything.

Yep, they do.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#gear-pullers/=avzlm0

yea they have the same sized ones i was looking at...

can anyone confirm a 1-1/4" wrench (easier to find locally) works great for a 32mm head?

also just found out theres a couple fastenal shops nearby. man i'm finding all sorts of stuff!

 

[RaWarrior]

Yep, should. 1 1/4" = 31.75mm .25mm difference larger

More commonly known, there's a .30mm difference between the 1/2" and 13mm, and using a 1/2 on a 13mm bolt works just fine.

 

[gamorg02]

Yep, should. 1 1/4" = 31.75mm .25mm difference larger

More commonly known, there's a .30mm difference between the 1/2" and 13mm, and using a 1/2 on a 13mm bolt works just fine.

makes sense. tractor supply has a 1-1/4" combo wrench which i think will hold the wheel better than my crescent deal.

 

[gamorg02]

picked up the 7 ton puller from tractor supply along with the 20" 1-1/4" wrench

(also picked up a spud wrench for $.99 and a few cresent wrenches and some odds and ends very cheap, first time at the store, kinda cool).

anyways. so it took a couple hours but moral of the story is the fucking flywheel popped!

took my 3 lbs sledge and a 25" breaker bar but it worked. the puller didn't have the right bolt to do it great so i ended up not being able to keep the main bolt on. so not knowing how far it would pop i heated up the flywheel with a propane torch for probably 45 seconds. then torqued everything down to th epoint where the breaker bar was lifting up the bike. then smacked it with the hammer 5 times and it finally popped about 2' out!

haha

anyways that was after about an hour of trying other ways on it.

the jaws didn't fit perfect so there are some superficial marks on the back, but thats minimal. gonna take her apart tonight as the springs/rollers etc all looked pretty good, just some loose bolts. gotta figure out how to fix the one bad spot now, thinking some 10mmx1.5 threads in there would allow some heaftier bolts in the future, fastenal has 100mm x 10mm x 1.5mm for like $3 a pop.

 

[satariel666]

:clapping:unk:unk:unk::clapping:

 

[[email protected]]

Glad to hear it!

 

[SpecOps13]

I can't believe someone else has the same kind of luck I do. It's a major fight for every inch of progress...


Congrats Garrett....

 

[dannymax]

Good deal!! :clapping:

 

[gamorg02]

haha thanks guys!

 

[naughtyG]

Well done Garrett - way to go! Must've been a relief

 

[Redbone]

Probably one of the sweetest sounds you've heard in a while, eh Garrett!:biglaugh: Good on ya!

 

[95spfldmax]

DAMN!!! What a monster to deal with!!! :bang head:

 

[gamorg02]

thanks again guys, so happy to have that outa the way!