gunrunner
Well-Known Member
You could always ask him that you have heard the Vmax can can leave 100 metres of rubber on the road in 2nd and see what his reply is ?
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You could always ask him that you have heard the Vmax can can leave 100 metres of rubber on the road in 2nd and see what his reply is ?
gunrunner
Well-Known Member
Yeah , funny that i constantly get looks and comments bout my bike ,
just must be something about the Max
Congrats on your purchase :clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping:
Boomer
Well-Known Member
Woah, thanks for all the advice! Only owned it a couple days and ridden 85 miles, but it's quickly obvious why this bike has endured for 20+ years. I ended up paying $7111 for the '05 with 17k miles, I'm OK with that. I may have found a cheaper one, but they also gave me $1k over blue-book on my trade and I didn't have to go through the hassle of selling it, so hard to complain.
What a freaking jewel of an engine. I've owned more powerful bikes, but nothing with an engine just this "Sweet" for lack of a better term. The bike has the Cobra 4:4 pipes, which I've read most forum members aren't too fond of power wise, but good God they sound SOOO good. Has to be the best bike sound I've ever heard, and I've heard a lot.
I'm not sure if the bike was jetted or not, any quick easy way to find out? It doesn't seem to run overly rich, but I've nothing to compare to so am unsure. I've past the point of caring about every last bit of power, so I really don't care if it lost a few, it's fine. I'm not looking for the fastest bike on the planet anymore, been there, done that. To me the V-max feels "just right" fast, whereas my recent GSX-R1000 felt "holy crap I'm gonna die" fast. I know it sounds wierd, but that thing had too much power for the street, actually took some of the fun out of it. I always said it was like riding around on a stick of dynamite, you never knew when it was gonna blow you up.
The seat basically sucks. It looks and feels comfortable when you first sit down, but after 30 minutes my butt is asleep, lol. I think my Honda's CBR600 seat was more comfortable, believe it or not. I see a Corbin in my future, when I have $400+ bones to toss around.
The total lack of drivetrain lash took a little adjusting too, but I adjusted quickly, and I'm amazed how smootly I can upshift the thing when accelerating. I mean seamless shifts that took me 3 months to perform so smooth on the chain-driven bike. I'm also extremely impressed with the shift action of the tranny, 1985 design no less! It shifts as well or better than my '08 CBR did, no lie! Kinda hard to get into neutral once hot like some have said, but not a big deal.
I need a shift light, tach location is basically worthless. Nothing y'all don't know.
For some reason I'm just the right (or wrong?) body configuration where the footpegs are exactly where I want to put my feet down. Neither in front or back of the pegs feels right, wierd. I'll adjust to that, but whenever I stop and go to put my feet down the pegs are always in the way. I've never had that issue on a bike, so not sure what's my deal. I can slide back and put my feet behind them which feels best, but it takes a stop/slide motion when I stop. Interesting issue, I know...
I still think the brakes suck, man. That's one thing I will be upgrading, somehow.
I'm more impressed with the handling than I expected. No, I will not dive into a decreasing radius bend at 9/10th's, but the thing leans into a turn well and feels good, A can't complain. After what I'd read I was expecting land-yacht 2-ton feeling handling, but honestly it's just not as bad as I expected. You can toss it around, and it's damn fun IMO.
Again, I've sorta put "maximus handling" behind me, and I'm pretty happy with it, even with the "skinny" back tire by today's standards. I am worrying myself a bit though, because just casual turns I'm only leaving like a 1/2" chicken strip on back, so I don't want to push it. Coming off one of the best handling bikes made I'm OK with the bike, but don't want to forget and dive into a corner too hard and low side it.
I've experienced a bit of steering shimmy, and would welcome advice on that. If I'm driving a steady 40-45 or decelerating really gradually around that speed, and lay my left arm on my lap (steering with one hand) the front wheel starts a small shimmy. Nothing like a tank slapper, but enough to make me wonder what's up.
Putting both hands on the steering stops it, or slightly accelerating. My tire pressures are ok, what else should I check? If this is normal, a steering damper is in my future. I don't like that.
There is a tiny toggle switch installed in the plastic shield just in front of the fake fuel tank, between the fake tank and front of the bike on the left side (just above the "entry" of the fake scoop). I'm assuming this isn't a stock switch? If not I need to trace the wires and see what it is. I figured maybe a manual fan cooling switch, but it doesn't seem to turn on the cooling fans. Ideas?
First time I washed it, the 20th anniv number tag fell off, doh! I didn't realize it, but it's not part of the actual plaque, but just a tiny aluminum sliver with the serial number on it. I need to glue that back, thankfully I found it in the driveway.
I didn't know it it when I bought it, but figured out the bike is a California model; it has the vapor canister on the left side. I am hoping there is no other differences, I'm going to be peaved if it has lesser cams, less power, blah blah like some CA bikes did in the past. Is there any advantage/harm to removing the vapor can? (I live in TX, not required here.)
I'll post up some pics later, thanks again everyone. Loving it so far!
What a freaking jewel of an engine. I've owned more powerful bikes, but nothing with an engine just this "Sweet" for lack of a better term. The bike has the Cobra 4:4 pipes, which I've read most forum members aren't too fond of power wise, but good God they sound SOOO good. Has to be the best bike sound I've ever heard, and I've heard a lot.
I'm not sure if the bike was jetted or not, any quick easy way to find out? It doesn't seem to run overly rich, but I've nothing to compare to so am unsure. I've past the point of caring about every last bit of power, so I really don't care if it lost a few, it's fine. I'm not looking for the fastest bike on the planet anymore, been there, done that. To me the V-max feels "just right" fast, whereas my recent GSX-R1000 felt "holy crap I'm gonna die" fast. I know it sounds wierd, but that thing had too much power for the street, actually took some of the fun out of it. I always said it was like riding around on a stick of dynamite, you never knew when it was gonna blow you up.
The seat basically sucks. It looks and feels comfortable when you first sit down, but after 30 minutes my butt is asleep, lol. I think my Honda's CBR600 seat was more comfortable, believe it or not. I see a Corbin in my future, when I have $400+ bones to toss around.
The total lack of drivetrain lash took a little adjusting too, but I adjusted quickly, and I'm amazed how smootly I can upshift the thing when accelerating. I mean seamless shifts that took me 3 months to perform so smooth on the chain-driven bike. I'm also extremely impressed with the shift action of the tranny, 1985 design no less! It shifts as well or better than my '08 CBR did, no lie! Kinda hard to get into neutral once hot like some have said, but not a big deal.
I need a shift light, tach location is basically worthless. Nothing y'all don't know.
For some reason I'm just the right (or wrong?) body configuration where the footpegs are exactly where I want to put my feet down. Neither in front or back of the pegs feels right, wierd. I'll adjust to that, but whenever I stop and go to put my feet down the pegs are always in the way. I've never had that issue on a bike, so not sure what's my deal. I can slide back and put my feet behind them which feels best, but it takes a stop/slide motion when I stop. Interesting issue, I know...
I still think the brakes suck, man. That's one thing I will be upgrading, somehow.
I'm more impressed with the handling than I expected. No, I will not dive into a decreasing radius bend at 9/10th's, but the thing leans into a turn well and feels good, A can't complain. After what I'd read I was expecting land-yacht 2-ton feeling handling, but honestly it's just not as bad as I expected. You can toss it around, and it's damn fun IMO.
Again, I've sorta put "maximus handling" behind me, and I'm pretty happy with it, even with the "skinny" back tire by today's standards. I am worrying myself a bit though, because just casual turns I'm only leaving like a 1/2" chicken strip on back, so I don't want to push it. Coming off one of the best handling bikes made I'm OK with the bike, but don't want to forget and dive into a corner too hard and low side it.
I've experienced a bit of steering shimmy, and would welcome advice on that. If I'm driving a steady 40-45 or decelerating really gradually around that speed, and lay my left arm on my lap (steering with one hand) the front wheel starts a small shimmy. Nothing like a tank slapper, but enough to make me wonder what's up.
Putting both hands on the steering stops it, or slightly accelerating. My tire pressures are ok, what else should I check? If this is normal, a steering damper is in my future. I don't like that.
There is a tiny toggle switch installed in the plastic shield just in front of the fake fuel tank, between the fake tank and front of the bike on the left side (just above the "entry" of the fake scoop). I'm assuming this isn't a stock switch? If not I need to trace the wires and see what it is. I figured maybe a manual fan cooling switch, but it doesn't seem to turn on the cooling fans. Ideas?
First time I washed it, the 20th anniv number tag fell off, doh! I didn't realize it, but it's not part of the actual plaque, but just a tiny aluminum sliver with the serial number on it. I need to glue that back, thankfully I found it in the driveway.
I didn't know it it when I bought it, but figured out the bike is a California model; it has the vapor canister on the left side. I am hoping there is no other differences, I'm going to be peaved if it has lesser cams, less power, blah blah like some CA bikes did in the past. Is there any advantage/harm to removing the vapor can? (I live in TX, not required here.)
I'll post up some pics later, thanks again everyone. Loving it so far!
Boomer....it's prolly time to snug up your steering head bearings....that should help with your low speed wobble.
Try the 'bounce method'...put the bike on the center stand and elevete the front end off the floor, let the front end swing freely to either stop and adjust the steering nut so the front lightly touches each stop without bouncing, or one light bounce only.
Ignore the manual torque setting, it prolly won't work due to all the variables in a front end with some miles on it.
There's a lot of info on this, run a search on steering head bearing adjustment...lots of threads will come up.
Good luck...keep us posted.
Try the 'bounce method'...put the bike on the center stand and elevete the front end off the floor, let the front end swing freely to either stop and adjust the steering nut so the front lightly touches each stop without bouncing, or one light bounce only.
Ignore the manual torque setting, it prolly won't work due to all the variables in a front end with some miles on it.
There's a lot of info on this, run a search on steering head bearing adjustment...lots of threads will come up.
Good luck...keep us posted.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Yup - tightening your steering head bearings will take care of that front end shimmy you found. Don't overtighten though, or you won't be able to keep it in a straight line a lower speeds.
No easy way to find out about the jetting unfortunately, checking / swapping main jets is a bit of a PITA.. :confused2:
If you're gonna spend any money on a seat, forget Corbin and get one of Sean Morley's Muscle seat - I have a Corbin and can't wait to give it to Sean to modify as it hurts my arse after 80 miles.. :bang head:
Not too sure about your peg position problem, don't have it myself, my leg always go down in front of them?
For brakes upgrades, your number 1 stop is a set of fresh EBC HH pads. Everyone here swears by them, they brake much better and don't eat the rotors as fast. Next, you might wanna get yourself a FJR1300 Master Cylinder - that will give you more braking power. In the end though, you're tryinna stop almost 900lbs (inc rider) so it's never gonna feel like a CBR..
As far as handling's concerned, just be careful when leaning over at high speeds (75mph+) - that's where the chassis limitations really show and a tankslapper's never too far away, unless you go for the straight line into that field!
That toggle switch you found, is it a 2 or 3-way? More than likely it's a T-Boost switch, a 2-way usually switches between stock V-Boost (kicks in at 6k rpm) and T-Boost (kicks in at 3k rpm).
I have the 3-way switch - down is T-Boost, mid is Off (better mpg) and up is standard V-Boost.
Your CA model is identical to all others - only difference is a couple more lbs of weight for those emission control devices. :clapping:
No easy way to find out about the jetting unfortunately, checking / swapping main jets is a bit of a PITA.. :confused2:
If you're gonna spend any money on a seat, forget Corbin and get one of Sean Morley's Muscle seat - I have a Corbin and can't wait to give it to Sean to modify as it hurts my arse after 80 miles.. :bang head:
Not too sure about your peg position problem, don't have it myself, my leg always go down in front of them?
For brakes upgrades, your number 1 stop is a set of fresh EBC HH pads. Everyone here swears by them, they brake much better and don't eat the rotors as fast. Next, you might wanna get yourself a FJR1300 Master Cylinder - that will give you more braking power. In the end though, you're tryinna stop almost 900lbs (inc rider) so it's never gonna feel like a CBR..
As far as handling's concerned, just be careful when leaning over at high speeds (75mph+) - that's where the chassis limitations really show and a tankslapper's never too far away, unless you go for the straight line into that field!
That toggle switch you found, is it a 2 or 3-way? More than likely it's a T-Boost switch, a 2-way usually switches between stock V-Boost (kicks in at 6k rpm) and T-Boost (kicks in at 3k rpm).
I have the 3-way switch - down is T-Boost, mid is Off (better mpg) and up is standard V-Boost.
Your CA model is identical to all others - only difference is a couple more lbs of weight for those emission control devices. :clapping:
boomer.
i just did the steering head bearing fix (bike only had 2k miles on it) and it made a world of difference. mine is a tad tighter than most did here but it feels great so i'm good with it for now. i have NO wobbles or low speed drifts or anything (altho on these damn new england roads you can't go tell with so many ruts!)
i agreed with NG, its probably the T-Boost. Take off your left scoop and dig around in there, take some pics first and we should be able to tell. One other way to tell is to find the vboost between the carbs. you can turn the key to "on" and switch the kill switch between run and off (the whiiring noise) to see the motor move. then try the switch in different positions and rev the engine and have a friend look at the vboost motor and tell you at what RPMs they see it start to move at... bu ti bet its a t-boost
i gotta say as far as handling, i read so many reviews saying it was piss poor i expected the worst (coming from a sport bike) but i find it just fine, i know where its limits are...
otherwise... keep it safe and keep asking questions man!
i just did the steering head bearing fix (bike only had 2k miles on it) and it made a world of difference. mine is a tad tighter than most did here but it feels great so i'm good with it for now. i have NO wobbles or low speed drifts or anything (altho on these damn new england roads you can't go tell with so many ruts!)
i agreed with NG, its probably the T-Boost. Take off your left scoop and dig around in there, take some pics first and we should be able to tell. One other way to tell is to find the vboost between the carbs. you can turn the key to "on" and switch the kill switch between run and off (the whiiring noise) to see the motor move. then try the switch in different positions and rev the engine and have a friend look at the vboost motor and tell you at what RPMs they see it start to move at... bu ti bet its a t-boost
i gotta say as far as handling, i read so many reviews saying it was piss poor i expected the worst (coming from a sport bike) but i find it just fine, i know where its limits are...
otherwise... keep it safe and keep asking questions man!
Boomer
Well-Known Member
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
not lookin' familiar but defo in the familiar T-boost spot, and nice n waterproof looking too.
I'd take the left scoop off and see if you find a black small (maybe round) box there with wiring going to that switch. If so, it's most likely a T-Boost.
It could, of course, be anything else from a manual override for the cooling fan to an aux switch for lights or other accessories, but that is definitely the preferred spot for the T-Boost switch.
Now, do you notice any difference in how the bike pulls between 3 and 6k rpm, depending on whether the switch is up or down?
If not, do you feel a difference in how the bike pulls between 6 and 9.5k rpm, again with the switch up or down?
If the latter, it could simply be a V-Boost disable switch - many have decided to do that for a number of reasons, low grip conditions and/or touring being the most popular.
I'd take the left scoop off and see if you find a black small (maybe round) box there with wiring going to that switch. If so, it's most likely a T-Boost.
It could, of course, be anything else from a manual override for the cooling fan to an aux switch for lights or other accessories, but that is definitely the preferred spot for the T-Boost switch.
Now, do you notice any difference in how the bike pulls between 3 and 6k rpm, depending on whether the switch is up or down?
If not, do you feel a difference in how the bike pulls between 6 and 9.5k rpm, again with the switch up or down?
If the latter, it could simply be a V-Boost disable switch - many have decided to do that for a number of reasons, low grip conditions and/or touring being the most popular.
Boomer
Well-Known Member
If it doesn't rain tomorrow (50% chance) I'll make some comparison runs with the switch up/down. I had no idea what the switch was, so didn't want to mess with it until I did some investigating. I've left it down the entire time, and I can feel the v-boost kick in at 6k, like I think it should.
I did try flipping the switch sitting still to see if the cooling fan kicked on, but it didn't so I don't think it's a fan switch. (This was my first guess before you guys mentioned the possiblity of a "T-Boost."
Given the choice, I'd rather it be a 3k/6k switch option; I really don't see a need to turn it off entirely. It's easy to ride around under 6k if you want to ride conservatively.
Having it kick in at 3k however seems like a cool idea, more midrange, if desired.
Again, thanks for the advice!
I did try flipping the switch sitting still to see if the cooling fan kicked on, but it didn't so I don't think it's a fan switch. (This was my first guess before you guys mentioned the possiblity of a "T-Boost."
Given the choice, I'd rather it be a 3k/6k switch option; I really don't see a need to turn it off entirely. It's easy to ride around under 6k if you want to ride conservatively.
Having it kick in at 3k however seems like a cool idea, more midrange, if desired.
Again, thanks for the advice!
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
To be honest I don't find that much of a difference when it's set to T-Boost on mine, and on the dyno it's been confirmed that it adds no power.
Switching V-Boost off altogether, I've also found that it makes no difference to how the bike pulls at 6ooo rpm either!
What's different is how quickly it goes from 6 to 95oo rpm! With V-Boost it just keeps on getting stronger, without it just seems to fade away in the high rpms..
Switching V-Boost off altogether, I've also found that it makes no difference to how the bike pulls at 6ooo rpm either!
What's different is how quickly it goes from 6 to 95oo rpm! With V-Boost it just keeps on getting stronger, without it just seems to fade away in the high rpms..
Boomer
Well-Known Member
Ahh, ok. Speaking of RPM's, what is a safe RPM to pull to? Someone mentioned earlier the Max has no rev limiter, so can I safely take it to 9k, 9500, what? What is the real danger zone?
I really need a shift light.
I really need a shift light.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Red zone is set at 9500rpm.
Lankee will vouch that our engines do NOT like going over 10,000rpm - damage will follow.
Lankee will vouch that our engines do NOT like going over 10,000rpm - damage will follow.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
A safe RPM to shift is 9200 RPMS.
An occasional 9500 RPMS.
When I dragrace I shift at 9500, when I street race I shift at 9200 never over 9500..... IF you are one of them guys that speed shifts (meaning you stay full throttle and feather the clutch between shifts I wouldnt shift over 9K since that instant of the clutch your RPMS will jump 2-3 hundred.
You will have no performance gain shifting at 9500 compared to 10K 10.2K etc.
Shifting over 9800 rpms you will see a difference in your bank account and see a nice shiney metal pieces in your oil along.
Unless you have cams, head work, along with aftermarket rods your pushing your luck with rods when you rev this VMAX engine trust me I have 4 cranks over the past 7-8 yrs..
5thhorseman
Active Member
Boomer,
Just a newbie here, but I thought I'd chime in on this one. I own an '01 Max with 18,000 miles on it. It runs like new. I haven't had to replace anything except the battery which I just had to do. Guess it didn't like the cold of this past winter. Had a dead cell, but it was original. Lasted 8 years....not to bad for a five year battery.
The engine still has as much power as the day I got it. Starts up and runs without any problems, even on cold days.
Change the oil regularly, change the final drive oil at the same time. You won't have any problems with it. Make sure you check the engine coolant regularly as well. A cool engine is a strong engine. Yamaha built such a good machine that I think you will be able to see very high miles without any trouble.
Now this is assuming that you ride without "gettin' on it" too often. While this powerhouse will not let you down on the short track, severe wear and tear will occur if you do burnouts and wheelies and the like. Expect engine trouble if you ride that way. If you ride right it'll last for years of enjoyment.
NaughtyG, I run stock V-Boost....not the T-boost "fix". I don't know if there's something wrong with your Max or not, but at 6500 RPM's, my machine turns into a raging torpedo of lava that wants nothing more than to leap from your hands. It does that until about 8 grand when your body finally catches up to the momentum. I've never had the balls to get it to redline. When the digits go to triple, I wuss out and slow down.
Ride Safe!!
Just a newbie here, but I thought I'd chime in on this one. I own an '01 Max with 18,000 miles on it. It runs like new. I haven't had to replace anything except the battery which I just had to do. Guess it didn't like the cold of this past winter. Had a dead cell, but it was original. Lasted 8 years....not to bad for a five year battery.
The engine still has as much power as the day I got it. Starts up and runs without any problems, even on cold days.
Change the oil regularly, change the final drive oil at the same time. You won't have any problems with it. Make sure you check the engine coolant regularly as well. A cool engine is a strong engine. Yamaha built such a good machine that I think you will be able to see very high miles without any trouble.
Now this is assuming that you ride without "gettin' on it" too often. While this powerhouse will not let you down on the short track, severe wear and tear will occur if you do burnouts and wheelies and the like. Expect engine trouble if you ride that way. If you ride right it'll last for years of enjoyment.
NaughtyG, I run stock V-Boost....not the T-boost "fix". I don't know if there's something wrong with your Max or not, but at 6500 RPM's, my machine turns into a raging torpedo of lava that wants nothing more than to leap from your hands. It does that until about 8 grand when your body finally catches up to the momentum. I've never had the balls to get it to redline. When the digits go to triple, I wuss out and slow down.
Ride Safe!!
Boomer
Well-Known Member
More great advice, thanks all. Love this forum man.
I am not a machine abuser by any means, but I do like to run her up through the gears somewhat regularly. I don't do burnouts or speed shift, those days are way behind me.
I think I'll get a shift light, set her at 9k, and call it good. It's just almost impossible to not wind this thing out regularly, it just sounds SOOO good.
I looked at the factory service manual last night and it's not exactly an easy procedure to tighten the steering head. Looks like several special tools are needed, 2-3 different torque wrenches, etc. Bummer, I'm pretty well stocked in the tools area, but don't think I have the stuff to pull that off. Guess I'll have to take it in to the shop soon, and man I hate doing that.
I am not a machine abuser by any means, but I do like to run her up through the gears somewhat regularly. I don't do burnouts or speed shift, those days are way behind me.
I think I'll get a shift light, set her at 9k, and call it good. It's just almost impossible to not wind this thing out regularly, it just sounds SOOO good.
I looked at the factory service manual last night and it's not exactly an easy procedure to tighten the steering head. Looks like several special tools are needed, 2-3 different torque wrenches, etc. Bummer, I'm pretty well stocked in the tools area, but don't think I have the stuff to pull that off. Guess I'll have to take it in to the shop soon, and man I hate doing that.
Check this out Boomer...if you want hi-tech. I drilled the square 3/8" hole to accept a torque wrench, but it's only for reference when using the bounce method. Just to find out what the torque ends up being...think mine was in the low 20's ft lbs. Easy steering head adj. tool
If you don't want to go to this trouble, a brass drift punch, or some even use a large screwdriver.
If you want it done right, I'd recommend doing it yourself, we'll talk you through it. You're welcome to use this spanner wrench....just PM me.
If you don't want to go to this trouble, a brass drift punch, or some even use a large screwdriver.
If you want it done right, I'd recommend doing it yourself, we'll talk you through it. You're welcome to use this spanner wrench....just PM me.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
I dunno, I've ridden mine and a couple of others, and they all felt the same around V-boost to me. Maybe I'm jut some kind of power addict LOL but I could still do with more.
One day, I might be able to afford an '09 or later..
5thhorseman
Active Member
I hear ya. I finally was able to sit on one of the new ones. I'm in love. Now if I can't just get the 18 grand together to get one.
The new one doesn't sound like the gen 1 though. It sounds more like a rice rocket to me. I'm kind of partial to the throaty Corvette sound that the older one has. Maybe I'm just being picky, but part of the experience for me is the sound.
Maybe the '09's exhaust can be "modified" to give it a deeper sound.
They wouldn't let me take it for a test ride, but I was allowed to start it. You can just feel the raw power that that beast has. My God.
Ride Safe!!
