High miles for a Max?

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Check this out Boomer...if you want hi-tech. I drilled the square 3/8" hole to accept a torque wrench, but it's only for reference when using the bounce method. Just to find out what the torque ends up being...think mine was in the low 20's ft lbs. Easy steering head adj. tool

If you don't want to go to this trouble, a brass drift punch, or some even use a large screwdriver.

If you want it done right, I'd recommend doing it yourself, we'll talk you through it. You're welcome to use this spanner wrench....just PM me.


danny is right on, all you need is a 27mm socket to get the big nut on top of the triple tree on and off and all i used was a 3", 1/4" socket drive extender and a hammer to tighten it down. had to have 2 guys there to help tho. one sat on the passenger seat and the other held the handlebars and risers while i did the bounce test. that made it a lot easier than ripping the handlebars apart.

my headlight is a bitch to get back together but i'd say if it wasn't it was all good in about an hr and a half.

any questions you can PM me as well, altho danny has done it many more times than me!
 
I just used a big 'ole standard wrench. 1 1/8 or 1 1/4, cant remember. lined the jaw of the wrench with ONE layer of tape to prevent any scratching or scuffing of my still prisitine '06 bitch. Loosened up the top nut, loosened up the LOWER pinch bolts on the triples, then tightened up BOTH adjusting nuts with the retainer in place at the same time using a hammer and drift. Had the front end of the ground (bike on center stand, small jack with 2x4 under frame rails w/ just enough pressure on it to get the front off the ground) and pushed bars from side to side. Tighten it all back up and go for a test spin. If you don't like what you did change it. Once its all done, I put just a couple drops of blue loctite on the steering stem threads (that engage with the top (chrome) nut).
 
Awesome man, I think I'll tackle the steering myself. It sounds like the overly complex procedure in the service manual is just that, overly complicated.

I just need to figure out how to make one of those homemade spanners, or borrow one. (or are you guys saying I can use a socket instead?)

Drove around tonight trying to determine if that unknown switch is a T-boost switch, and basically I have no idea. I tried both positions and it feels the same power wise to me. I feel a power increase around 6k which I think is the standard v-boost coming on. It doesn't feel like a huge boost to me, but like I said, I'm pretty used to powerful bikes. The v-max is actually the least powerful of the last four bikes I've owned, so the "boost" isn't overwhelming. It almost feels like a 600 coming on the cam, so I'm not really sure what is going on, lol.

I would love to dyno the bike to make sure it's all up to speed, maybe someday.
 
Awesome man, I think I'll tackle the steering myself. It sounds like the overly complex procedure in the service manual is just that, overly complicated.

I just need to figure out how to make one of those homemade spanners, or borrow one. (or are you guys saying I can use a socket instead?)

Drove around tonight trying to determine if that unknown switch is a T-boost switch, and basically I have no idea. I tried both positions and it feels the same power wise to me. I feel a power increase around 6k which I think is the standard v-boost coming on. It doesn't feel like a huge boost to me, but like I said, I'm pretty used to powerful bikes. The v-max is actually the least powerful of the last four bikes I've owned, so the "boost" isn't overwhelming. It almost feels like a 600 coming on the cam, so I'm not really sure what is going on, lol.

I would love to dyno the bike to make sure it's all up to speed, maybe someday.

you can use a spanner, cut a socket to fit, or use a drift and a hammer (my choice since I don' thave a spanner, still building my toolbox) or a screwdriver and a hammer.... the serv manual i s abit misleading saying its a specific torque that works, thats not true at all. its all about the bounce test. mine ended up being i bet around 35 ft lbs... as sean said he's seen from 20 - 100...

as far as the tboost i agree with ya, i don't notice a huge difference either. you can always get someone to rev the bike and u watch the butterfly valve motor.
 
you can use a spanner, cut a socket to fit, or use a drift and a hammer (my choice since I don' thave a spanner, still building my toolbox) or a screwdriver and a hammer.... the serv manual i s abit misleading saying its a specific torque that works, thats not true at all. its all about the bounce test. mine ended up being i bet around 35 ft lbs... as sean said he's seen from 20 - 100...

yup - I went with the Yamaha-prescribed torque first when I fitted new bearings and it was too loose. I think I ended up around 25 ft/lbs.

Garrett, a spanner? Feels like I'm home in the UK lol - do you mean a wrench? :biglaugh:

I used a BIG socket (can't remember the exact size but can check) and ground it down until there were just two prongs poking out one end, and these fit snuggly into the castle nut's groove so I can actually use my torque wrench.

But for quick adjustments, the best and easiest way is definitely to simply loosen the big top nut on the triple-tree, and then use a punch and hammer on the lower castle nut with the bounce test.

as far as the tboost i agree with ya, i don't notice a huge difference either. you can always get someone to rev the bike and u watch the butterfly valve motor.

Sounds like you might just wanna remove that left scoop and find out if that switch's even wired to anything.. :rofl_200:
 
Awesome man, I think I'll tackle the steering myself. It sounds like the overly complex procedure in the service manual is just that, overly complicated.

I just need to figure out how to make one of those homemade spanners, or borrow one. (or are you guys saying I can use a socket instead?)

Drove around tonight trying to determine if that unknown switch is a T-boost switch, and basically I have no idea. I tried both positions and it feels the same power wise to me. I feel a power increase around 6k which I think is the standard v-boost coming on. It doesn't feel like a huge boost to me, but like I said, I'm pretty used to powerful bikes. The v-max is actually the least powerful of the last four bikes I've owned, so the "boost" isn't overwhelming. It almost feels like a 600 coming on the cam, so I'm not really sure what is going on, lol.

I would love to dyno the bike to make sure it's all up to speed, maybe someday.

Take the scoop off on the left side and check the v boost module to see if the plugs are connected or if they were seperated and modified. that will tell you if the v boost is switch controled. If not trace the wires and see where they lead.:ummm: It could be a fan switch or a timing advance mod.
<<Dave>>
 
Steering head adjustment is my next job, but in the mean time I yanked off the left scoop, and to check out that mysterious switch. Curiosity was getting the best of me.

Well, my butt-o-meter was right; there was no difference with the switch up or down, because the switch ISN'T HOOKED UP TO ANYTHING. :rofl_200:

I can only guess he had a T-Boost on it and took it off, who knows? I saw nothing in there that looked "non-stock."

Mystery solved at least, lol.

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Gents, question. Is it possible to take the tach/temp gauge cluster apart so the glass can be cleaned? There is what appears to be a foggy spot over my tach; nothing bad but it bugs me. Just wanted to see if this is possible before I make an attempt and break it or something.

Side note, filled up twice, got 38mpg on first tank, 40 on 2nd. Not too bad compared to what I've read on here, so it appears I'm not running THAT rich, despite having the Cobra exhaust.
 
You can remove the cluster and then take out the gauges. You'll have to reach into the housing to clean it from there (at least what I remember from memory).

sean
 
Thanks Sean! I'll give that a try.

Use some anti-fog cleaner for glasses though or it'll fog back up again. The stock main clock uses an oil or something if you look really close you can see something on the back side of the glass.
 
That's exactly what it looks like, like there is some oil residue on the inside of the glass. What do you mean "main clock?"
 
Side note, filled up twice, got 38mpg on first tank, 40 on 2nd. Not too bad compared to what I've read on here, so it appears I'm not running THAT rich, despite having the Cobra exhaust.

I would think the Cobras would cause you to run leaner than the stock, not richer, but I could be wrong.
 
To be honest I don't find that much of a difference when it's set to T-Boost on mine, and on the dyno it's been confirmed that it adds no power.

Switching V-Boost off altogether, I've also found that it makes no difference to how the bike pulls at 6ooo rpm either!

What's different is how quickly it goes from 6 to 95oo rpm! With V-Boost it just keeps on getting stronger, without it just seems to fade away in the high rpms..

Yamaha did their research on this thats for sure :punk:
 
Well I took apart the tach cluster and wiped the inside of the "glass." It seemed to be covered in an oily mist, wierd. Wasn't too hard, took maybe 10 minutes to get apart.

My right mirror stalk wasn't oriented correctly, so I tried to loosen it and straighten it up. Damn thing broke off flush with the brake master cylinder, DOH! Now I have to drill that out, find a new mirror, %%^*%^#@$@#
 

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