How to: Fix your Vmax's low voltage or charging problems

[RaWarrior]

Mr. Warrior -
I agree that connectors are often a weak point, but in this case, doesn't eliminating the connector make testing of the stator output more difficult?
Wouldn't you have to cut the wires, test, and then re-solder?

That's why I suggested to leave the connectors un-sealed until the problem had been remedied, so you could poke a meter probe in there to test.

Otherwise yes, you'd either have to cut the wire or strip a bit of insulation to get a probe on.

 

[cd wallace]

Ok guys found a place that you can get the connector to plug into r/r the web site is www.eastern beaver.com
They make plug in kits too the plugs are waterproof . Hope this helps

 

[wildweasel_pt]

That site is well known mate... You can also find the stock connectors on Ebay...

 

[Blurr]

I'm glad he mentioned it, I didn't know about it till he mentioned it.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Send an email to Jim from eastern beaver. He is a cool guy. I got my leads and connectors from him and you can check the work on my thread below...

 

[maxumus]

ok here goes .this is not my strong point being electrical. i have the 5 wire. but where is the stator i looked and i am clueless . i do not see 3 black wires.the wires to the rr are 3 white and 1 black and 1 red.

 

[maxumus]

i took some pictures of my 06 vmax wire the first. is showing the connector to the rr .

 

[maxumus]

thi

s the the 3 white wires disconnected.

 

[maxumus]

my question is? is this what i am suppose to cut or can i just just leave that unconnected?

 

[RaWarrior]

Yes, that 3 wire connector is your stator output. On my bike the wires were black, but white and yellow are also pretty common for stator outputs. I suppose the wire colors may have varied through the years.

The stator itself is inside the engine case and not visible.

Leaving it unconnected will ensure the bike does not charge. It won't hurt anything to run the bike with it disconnected but the ignition, headlight, ect, will be running purely off the battery. This is fine for a few minutes but do not drive it with it disconnected.

You can do the multimeter bench tests off the connector, though I suggest cutting both ends off and splicing/soldering them together.

 

[Bill Seward]

Absolutely solder them together. I've got a new stator coming in for my Roadstar (from this point referred to as "The Great Blue Slug"). I'm gonna solder everything. Get some heatshrink to insulate things, and you'll be fine.

 

[maxumus]

thanks for the help . i put the battery on trickle charger and today i also retightened the ground from battery to motor . looking at meter and seems to be fine i started the bike and let it get hot.ie. fans kick on. the meter went down a bit then turned the bike off and the voltage started going back up .good sign .

 

[squib]

a regulator from a honda super dream is still as good an item as you can buy. It has 6 wires. 3 from the stator a pos and an earth. the 6th wire should be connected to a live terminal on an ignition coil. This senses the voltage within the actual working electrical system rather than at the battery and cuts the charge in and out as required from there

 

[maximus speedicus]

need some help on this, guys. I was having charging issue: 12.5V @ 3500 rpm. So I fitted the zx10 R/R like the original post with the only difference being that I sent the ground to the frame and the positive to the original wiring harness. the battery was charged and read at 12.7V. I started the bike and the voltage jumped to about 14.3 at idle. Then it gradually went up to about 16V and is holding steady there. even when i rev it up to 3000 rpm it doesn't fluctuate a bit. it will fluctuate if i turn on the high beam, fan, and turn signal but it is still at 15+V. also the R/R got really hot. any help would be appreciated.

 

[maximus speedicus]

^^anything?

 

[Tex85]

I would check your ground, it looks like it isn't offloading enough of the excess voltage. If you connect it to a known good ground and it is still high you may want to RMA that RR. I had an RR that did this and didn't think much of it, a month or two later and I found it was pushing 20+v through the electrical system. It fried my starter relay and battery and required me to get some HD buddies to push start me at Daytona Bike Week. A good laugh was has at my expense.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[sdt354]

The regulator appears to be defective and is over charging the battery. This is an issue that can cause damage. 16 volts is too much. Usually it's not the issue with our bikes. Do check your meter to be sure it is accurate. Check polarity of your connections too, get a reading when the positive lead is connected to the battery. It's common for R/R's to get hot when running. Which is why the factory mounts them where they'll get a good stream of colling air. I'd try a different regualtor.
Steve-o

 

[maximus speedicus]

I will do some more fiddling around with it like connecting it straight up to the battery terminals before I shell out cash for another R/R but what is RMA?

 

[maximus speedicus]

I hooked up the R/R directly to the battery but it is still putting out 16V at idle and at 3500 RPM. So I checked the resistance between the 3 stator wires and found them to be between .3 and .5 ohms. also tried to get an ac voltage reading across the stator wires but either couldn't get a good read or it's putting out less than 20 VAC. Any ideas?

 

[Miles Long]

Try doing the RR diode check, as outlined in the Electrosport instructions.
Cheers!