I just found this on vmaxchat. The pros can chime in to check for validation. If its good to go feel free to use it as pleased... The author is the user "9tonsmantis"...
Retro fitting V-Boost
Right, here's how you do it & what you'll need.
Tool List.
Allen keys, 4 & 5mm.
Screwdrivers, cross head selection & possibly flat head as well.
Somewhere to store stuff.
Long nose pliers.
Electrical pliers.
Electrical crimp connectors (automotive).
Manifold inlet o-rings - new, 4 off.
V-boost valves to replace existing blanking plates.
V-boost servomotor.
V-boost control unit.
Full power ECU.
Rubber sleeves to connect the manifolds to v-boost valves if they don't come with any.
Hose clamps for said sleeves, but again, only if you don't have any already.
Mounting bracket for the servomotor.
Servomotor cables.
Insulation tape.
A means of cutting insulation tape!
10mm socket.
Socket wrench.
Cable ties.
Clippers.
Extra lengths of wire, preferably yellow, black and red/black.
Start by removing the false tank, & the air scoops.
Behind the left hand air scoop is a plastic board for the electric gizmos.
Remove the three retaining screws & drape the board down over the side of the bike.
You could remove the connectors instead & put the board to one side if preferred.
Remove the left hand frame gap filler plastic.
This is secured using one of the screws that secures the board so it's probably fallen off anyway.
Behind this you'll find the throttle cable linkage.
Leave it alone for the time being.
Behind the right hand air scoop you'll find the thermostat housing, there's a plastic cover that will just pull away from the housing.
Pull it away from the housing.
Next remove the three long screws that secure the thermostat housing to the plastic board.
Then remove the three screws securing the board to the frame.
Like the left hand side, one of these screws retains the right hand frame filler plastic.
Remove this also if it hasn't fallen off.
The coolant needn't be drained, this side is only removed to facilitate disconnecting & then connecting the ECU later.
Using a crosshead screwdriver remove the cover to the air box.
There are 8 screws, 2 front, 2 side & 2 rear.
The other 2 secure the breather pipes to the air box, these need to come off too.
Remove air box cover & air filter.
If it's knackered you may as well replace it now.
Behind the air box is the expansion tank for the cooling system.
There are two hoses on top of it.
Using the long nose pliers, squeeze the retaining clip together & pull each hose clear of the tank.
Grip the tank & pull it smoothly clear of the bike in an upward motion.
It may be tight due to age but it should come off easily.
Underneath the air box you will find 4 rubber sleeves connecting the air box to the carbs.
Each is secured with a clamp that is retained in position with a screw.
Slacken each screw 15 turns or so.
Note each sleeve is connected to the air box & whilst I'm sure its possible to push them through the air box etc undoing the clamp is a much simpler way of doing things...
Pull the air box clear of the carbs but not too far, the crankcase breather pipe is secured to the rear of the air box with a pipe.
Note, the older the bike the more chance there is of the clamp screws being corroded & past their useful life.
Have some spares ready just in case.
Again, on older bikes the air box may need some "coaxing" to separate it from the carbs, have a suitable pry bar to hand & have a good long think before selecting the place to use it!
Mine came off easily with a little bit of leverage applied.
As previously mentioned, the crankcase breather is to the rear of the air box so holding the air box up, use the long nose pliers to again squeeze the retaining clip together & pull the pipe off the box.
Completely remove the air box.
It's worth checking it at this point for yellow sludge in the breather pipe or the union where the pipe joins the air box.
Clean if any found.
Also worth cleaning any oil from inside the air box as well.
Ensure that you have all 4 clamp clips from the air box still on the rubber sleeves.
Find them if they aren't!
Before removing the carbs we need to disconnect the throttle cables.
Find the splitter on the left hand side of the bike.
Undo the 2 screws that secure the clear plastic cover & remove.
The screws are small, don't lose them!
Then remove the 1 screw securing the black cable clamp to the right of the splitter.
Tape a small piece of insulation tape to each side of the top 2 cables.
This will help you remember which cable came from where when you refit them.
Remove the cables & the white plastic sliders from the casing & then separate the cables from the sliders.
To do this, pull the cable end you are trying to separate towards the white plastic slider.
The cable will unseat & push down through the slider.
It can then be pulled clear.
Repeat for the other 3 cables.
Keep the sliders in the rail that the came from & its a good idea to temporarily screw together the slider assembly so bits don't get lost.
Now the carbs.
In the centre of the carb bank is a hose connected to a crosspiece.
This is the fuel hose.
Remove the retaining clip (long nose pliers etc etc) & pull the hose clear of the carbs.
Make sure you have something to hand that will block the hose, I used an old drill bit.
Drain the carbs by undoing the drain screw of each in turn & catching the petrol in a suitable container.
A jam jar is ideal, the fuel can then be kept for other uses.
Retighten each drain screw once there is no more fuel exiting the drain pipes (the 4 small black tubes, 2 each side that poke through the steel cross bar between the carbs).
The carbs now need to be separated from the blanked off boost tubes.
There are two clamps below each of the carbs, one clamp seals the carb to the rubber sleeve, the other seals the boost manifold to the rubber sleeve.
Undo the bottom clamp of each carb, again 15 turns or so.
If the bikes old then prepare to have problems here.
Penetrating oil & a snug fitting screwdriver are the answer.
This will remove the carbs & the rubber sleeves from the boost tubes without disturbing the carb end of the rubber sleeve.
With all clamps slackened, remove the vacuum hose which can be found on the front left carb.
Long nose pliers, squeeze the clip together etc etc.
Mind you don't lose that clip!
The other 3 carbs have blanking plugs so the vacuum connection is quite obvious.
All 4 carbs are removed in one action, so grip the front two diaphragm covers (the big silver bits) & pull upwards.
Repeat with the rear carbs.
All 4 of the rubber sleeves should be clear of the boost tubes & the bank of carbs can be manipulated clear of the bike from the left hand side.
If the bike is old, again there may be some "persuasion" required.
Be gentle with that pry bar!
Be aware of the crankcase breather pipe & any electrical wiring, get them tucked out of the way to avoid damage/strain etc.
Place the carbs onto a clean rag, somewhere where they won't be contaminated by dust / debris.
Next to the cat's litter tray is not ideal...
The blanked off manifolds are connected by a rubber sleeve but this need not be disturbed.
Each pair of manifolds can be removed in tandem, simply use a 5mm allen key to slacken each screw in turn & then remove the screws.
NOTE: the front left manifold screw & rear right manifold screw access the oil gallery of each cylinder set.
Once the manifolds are removed ensure that these two screws are returned to their housing to prevent oil leaking all over the patio etc.
With the screws undone completely the manifolds can be pulled clear of the cylinders.
Don't forget the oilway screws!
Next up, some of the wiring.
There are a bank of idiot lights & 2 gauges sitting in a pod bolted to the top of the frame.
First block off the open inlet manifolds.
Some old clean rags are ideal.
This is why…
Undo the 2 x 10mm nuts securing the pod to the frame.
Disconnect the wiring of the pod at the connectors on the left hand side of the frame.
Now pull the pod clear of the two studs it sits on.
If you're lucky the two rubber flanges & the 4 washers (2 on top & 2 on the bottom) will all come off with the pod.
If your unlucky (like the Mantis) the washers will go in 4 different directions & the rubbers will go their own way entirely.
Retrieve the washers & the rubbers, inspect for damage etc then store the whole lot where it'll keep dry.
Under a hanging basket is not a good idea…
You have to remove the pod to get to the ECU that is fixed to a shelf just below it.
Remove the connectors (2 off) from the right hand side of the ECU.
These could be very stiff so WD40 & perseverance are the key.
Don't be tempted to grab a fistful of wires & heave.
Lots of cursing will be the result & there is no way in hell I'm going to walk you through that lot!
With the ECU disconnected use a screwdriver to remove the two securing screws & remove its rubber cover.
There are 2 sleeves inside the cover that stop the screws ruining the holes, these sleeves are loose so try to remove them before disturbing the cover.
With the cover removed, the ECU can be manipulated clear of the shelf.
Ok, now for the interesting bit.
Take the full power ECU (you haven't muddled them have you?) & manipulate it onto the shelf.
Refit the connectors then refit the rubber cover.
Don't forget the sleeves for the screws.
Fit the boost valves with their rubber sleeves & clamp them using the hose clips.
Fit the manifolds to the boost valves but don't tighten the clamp just yet.
Secure it enough to prevent the manifold dropping off but loose enough to grant some side to side (twisting) free play.
Fit a new o-ring to each manifold.
Offer up the manifolds to their respective cylinder bank, insert the screws & tighten finger tight.
Be quick here or those oil galleries will leak oil all over your nice clean mating faces!
And the patio...
Torque down the manifolds & then tighten the clamp screws on the rubber sleeves.
Bolt the servomotor to its mounting bracket & then bolt the mounting bracket into position, under the ECU shelf.
The restricted Max comes with the brackets in place for the motor but does not include the servomotor mounting bracket.
This is a frustrating pitfall so be aware!
Bolts are 10mm securing it to the mounting plate.
Connect the servo cable to the boost valves.
I connected the cable to the valves first & then fitted the motor and connected the cable to the motor.
Just found it a bit easier but you may find another way.
There's not much "give" in the cable so take it easy!
Once the motor is in place then reconnect the wiring for the instrument pod & refit the pod.
You haven't lost those washers have you?!?
Ensure that the wiring for the servomotor exits the left hand side of the bike.
It's a pain fitting carbs & air box only to discover the servo motor wiring is still tucked up away somewhere inside…
It's a round connector that connects directly to the boost control unit.
Refit the carbs.
Refit the fuel hose.
Refit the vacuum hose.
Not lost that clip have you??
Reconnect the throttle cable splitter.
Remember that the taped cables are at the top.
This may be a little tricky if you (like me) haven't released the cable from the handlebar clamp.
However, the trick is to fit each cable into its respective slider, then each slider into its respective channel.
Grease the channel then hold each end of the cable in place as you put down the black clamp first followed by the clear plastic one.
Ensure you are happy with the action of the throttle cable before proceeding.
Reconnect the crankcase breather to the air box bottom half and then refit it to the carbs.
Refit the expansion tank and reconnect it's hoses.
Refit the air filter & then refit the cover to the air box.
Once refitted the breather pipes from the carbs can be screwed down onto the cover.
Starting to look like a bike again isn't it?
Now the boost wiring.
On the left hand side of the bike is the flasher relay & the fuel pump relay.
Beside the middle black box of the plastic panel removed earlier is a round slot.
The bottom of the boost control unit sits here.
The top has a bolt hole through it but I simply cable tied the top of the unit to the plastic panel.
Use the clippers to snip off the tail of the cable tie.
The v-boost control unit has a round connector on it.
This plugs into the servo motor connector that should be sticking out of the left hand side of the bike.
The connection from the servomotor should be trailed so that it exits through the plastic panel, there's even a cut-out designed for this.
Now the wiring proper.
The restricted max does not come with the wiring for the v-boost servomotor so we have to make our own.
The control unit has a three-pin connector in addition to the round servomotor connector.
You will find a Brown, Grey & Black wire going into this 3-pin connector from the control unit.
Now find the fuel pump relay.
It's the black box at the left of the plastic panel on the left hand side of the bike as you look at the bike from the left hand side.
It has the following wires going into a 6-pin connector.
Blue with black, green, red with green, yellow, red with black and black.
This is how I did it.
The earth (back wire) can be connected directly to the frame and the wires can be soldered but my way just took less time.
Take a deep breath and then cut all three wires from the v-boost control unit, the grey, the black and the brown.
Cut them as close to the connector as you can.
Then using your electrical pliers strip back the insulation so approximately 7mm of copper is exposed on each wire.
Now take another deep breath.
Unplug the fuel pump relay connector and cut the following wires, black, yellow & red with black.
Cut them halfway between the connector & the point where they all disappear into the loom.
Strip back the insulation of each side of the cuts so approx 7mm of copper is exposed.
Where the wiring exits the loom crimp a female connector to each of the black, yellow & red with black wires.
Where the wiring exits the v-boost control unit crimp a female connector to each of the black, grey & brown wires.
Now, you'll need some extra wire, either gather some yellow, black and red/black wire together or use all the same colour its up to you.
Using the existing colours will make future problem solving a bit easier…
Take your new wire & strip each end so approx 7mm copper is exposed.
The wires need only be 5cm or so long.
But longer is better as there will be less stress on the joins.
Crimp a male connector to one end of your new wires.
For the sake of argument I shall call them new yellow, new black and new red/black.
Connect the male of the new yellow to the female of the grey wire from the v-boost controller.
Connect the male of the new black to the female of the black wire from the v-boost controller.
Connect the male of the new red/black to the female of the brown from the v-boost controller.
Next, twist together the ends of the new yellow & the yellow from the fuel pump relay.
Crimp them into a male connector.
Then twist together the ends of the new black & the black from the fuel pump relay.
Crimp them into a male connector.
Finally, twist together the ends of the new red/black & the red/black from the fuel pump relay.
Crimp them into a male connector.
Now plug each of the above into their corresponding female connector going into the loom.
Yellow to yellow, black to black, red/black to red/black.
Refit the plastic panels (left and right) to the frame not forgetting the frame filler sections that locate on one screw of each side plate.
Refit the thermostat housing on the right hand side (3 long screws) and replace its pull off cover.
Refit air scoops & then the false tank.
Turn the ignition key and listen for the fuel pump.
You should also hear two whirrs.
One is the servomotor opening the boost valves, the other is the servomotor closing the boost valves.
It's a test run to ensure the valves are clear & the system is working.
If you don't hear the whirrs then something is wrong. Check your wiring connections!
Jobs a good un.
Secondary considerations:
There is a train of thought that says the full power camshafts are also different to the restricted version.
Another school of thought indicates the differential can also play a part.
Another update may be coming up in the next few years...!
Now a word of warning:
You have essentially completely changed the drive characteristics of your previously emasculated max.
Take it easy at first and once you're comfortable with the way the power is delivered take your brain out & leave it in the toolbox.
Oh, and my apologies.
The grin will never fade…
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