Lycan Engine Build

[TURBOVMAX]

Yes, they weld it up. The stk cranks are cast, not forged. There are thousands of strokers running around and living good lives. Lots of attention needs to be paid to balancing/oiling and rpm in order to live a long time. Those same things can be said of any motor. You'd be suprised how many go with a larger bore and never balance to suit. Won't last as long or make as much hp.
Like Gary has mentioned before, even he had crank problems with his V-max early on. Once he addressed the oiling situation(new pan design was "the fix"), he never had anymore crank issues. His heavy beast has been over 170mph in the 1/4mi too! That was with HIM riding...talk about stress!:biglaugh:

First you call me old and then I'm fat! Jesus... LOL

 

[satariel666]

I think it's important that you all know that I'm not trying to talk anybody into doing anything. This project is something I'm doing for myself and the last thing I need is for people to follow along and then have a failure and blame me for taking them down that road. Building a high performance engine is what it is. I've got the broken parts to prove it. I would like you all to understand by the end of this project exactly how to put a standard engine together so that it's reliable.

Im preaty aware of this Gary. I know the risk and do not expect anythig from ya. I just like the idea and wanna try this myself and your right, theres no sense to do that without stroking. Like you mentioned its better to buy good aftermarkets rods.

But i think ill try this way, this could be very intresting.

And if somethig fails then you are the last person that i will ever blame, in fact i never blame anyone for my fails. Whats mine is mine.
And **** happens LOL

I understand your feelings about this but i'll be very greatful for the all info from you. If not then no, nothing happens.

 

[one2dmax]

Gary, if you have time please do the math and check the clearance. I've got a 1500 I need to put back together and would do this in a heartbeat. I can send the crank off to Falicon (I have a dealer account with them and would see what kind of price we can get the group). I already have some good forged Arias pistons so would like to try and keep them if possible. I do have Carrillo rods but can set them aside for another project later.

Re-busing the rods to 19mm is no problem and we have even used pistons with 20mm pins before too. Might even be able to rebore the pin size to the 20mm dimension but the smaller pin size has less travel to it. The same with the smaller big end size of the Busa rod. Less travel path/time/speed for the bearings which will help there too.

Sean

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Sean,

What do those Arias pistons use for a deck clearance? Do you happen to have the dimensional info for them? If not maybe you can give me a dimension from the centerline of the wrist pin to the top of the piston. Falicon does good work and could do the job fine. I've been searching around and found this shop... I can't find anybody to say anything bad about them, it's all good. Check out their billet cranks. Man I need Powerball bad.

Marine Crankshaft

It's gonna take me a couple of weeks to get the rotating assembly together. Do you suppose you might have the time to put a stock assembly together... you probably already have one. I'd like to check the clearance between the stock piston skirt at bottom stroke and the crank throws? Maybe stack some shim and try to see what we have. I was thinking of having my Pro Engineer Software buddies run a simulation at work. (Reason I'd like a little time). Don't want to make a mistake because it could be costly.

The big end bearing dia. of the Busa is the same as the VMAX.

 

[satariel666]

Approximetley 8mm~ to contact piston with crank.
I think that one more thing must be checked, the big end may hit the bottom of lower case after stroking.
Answer:
Just checked, lot of space there so - no.

 

[one2dmax]

Got the Carrillo rod specs and you're right - more or less the same. Even the 08 busa is the same except even smaller 18mm pins with less recip weight. I will get the specs on the 1500 pistons we have (and any other we can come up with).

Here's the rod specs (for carrillo):
Huyabusa Vs Vmax
Length - 4.705" (119.5mm) vs 4.882" (124mm)
PE Width - .825" (20.96mm) vs .675" (17.15mm)
BE Width - .826" (20.98mm) vs .784" (19.91mm)
BE Bore - 1.6144" (41.006mm) vs 1.6142" (41.000mm)
Pin Dia - 20mm (08 busa 18mm) vs 19mm
Weight in grams - 348 total (08 busa 348) 247 Rotate (08 busa 252) 101 recip (08 Busa 96)
vs 360 Total 263 Rotate 97 Recip (Note the "A" beam version is lighter yet with a fatter PE width).

Sean

 

[satariel666]

One more thing. Busa have only 4 selection colors for rod bearings.
This could be a problem. Must messure exactly the busa rods and then grind the journal to required diamater.

Sean, please share the info about Falicon price for stroking :biglaugh:

 

[one2dmax]

Busa rod would be changed on the bottom end to use the Vmax bearings it sounds like?? Otherwise you are going to have to shave off the busa bearings too. Not sure which way would be best to go. Not even sure the Vmax bearings will fit into the correct "notch" area on the max rod.

I did give a call to Arais that we had make my last 1500 (flat top) pistons. My comp ratio now with .027" head gaskets and .033" down in the bore is approx 12:1. If we stroked the crank and reused the piston as is we would have about 13.5:1 ratio. A bit high for street use but if we converted to E85 would not be a problem. If we didn't stroke it as much we could get the comp ratio about the same but I would lose some quench with my pistons as is. No problem correcting that with new pistons as we would build them however we liked. We could also go a thicker head gasket to get some comp back out of it - again this only matters for using my current pistons as is.

Gary, shoot me an email and I can give you my contact info at Arias and they will give you info from my piston card (already talked to them and let them know it was ok).

I will see if I have time to put one of each together and show you the max current clearance.

Prizmek, what's the clearance to the sleeves? That can always be notched away too but the more we make this a non-bolt in the less some would be interested.

Sean
[email protected]

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Busa rod would be changed on the bottom end to use the Vmax bearings it sounds like?? Otherwise you are going to have to shave off the busa bearings too. Not sure which way would be best to go. Not even sure the Vmax bearings will fit into the correct "notch" area on the max rod.

I did give a call to Arais that we had make my last 1500 (flat top) pistons. My comp ratio now with .027" head gaskets and .033" down in the bore is approx 12:1. If we stroked the crank and reused the piston as is we would have about 13.5:1 ratio. A bit high for street use but if we converted to E85 would not be a problem. If we didn't stroke it as much we could get the comp ratio about the same but I would lose some quench with my pistons as is. No problem correcting that with new pistons as we would build them however we liked. We could also go a thicker head gasket to get some comp back out of it - again this only matters for using my current pistons as is.

Gary, shoot me an email and I can give you my contact info at Arias and they will give you info from my piston card (already talked to them and let them know it was ok).

I will see if I have time to put one of each together and show you the max current clearance.

Prizmek, what's the clearance to the sleeves? That can always be notched away too but the more we make this a non-bolt in the less some would be interested.

Sean
[email protected]

Think I would prefer to have the crank ground to the Busa journal specs. The Busa rods can be machined to the Vmax big end width without even getting close to the bearings. All in all it looks very do able... kinda cool. Cheap strong rods and more displacement. Almost sounds too good to be true... we'll see. You can just click on the email address below my name and send the info if that's ok.

 

[satariel666]

double, deleted

 

[satariel666]

V-max rod is wider then bearing, see pic.
Dont know how its like in busa but im sure that i can shave 0,5mm from each side and do not touch the bearings. Better to use busa bearings.
Maybe Gary can make a photo similar to this:

Ya know, the best goal is to keep the stock pistons. Change only crank and rods. See another pic.
Piston comes out from sleeve by only 3mm. By adding 4mm its may be to much. What i can say that i see no problem to shave stock piston at bottom
and even shave at the top to correct the compresion ratio.
Another benefit - lighter piston. I have some old pistons.
I can use them as an guinea pigs LOL

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Maybe a strange question to ask on a Vmax site. Does anybody have a Hayabusa piston kicking around? maybe a friend who has one?

 

[satariel666]

Maybe a strange question to ask on a Vmax site. Does anybody have a Hayabusa piston kicking around? maybe a friend who has one?

You devil, you're thinking the same as me?
To use busa piston?

As far as i know busa are 81mm bore and venture are 79mm bore.
Sure can grind sleeves and go for more(1442). Dunno what the limit in venture sleeve.
Sean might know.

Must call to my friend tommorow. He use to have busa engine with good rods and pistons. If he still have it i will have the specs.

 

[hubeerjw]

I just wanted to let you guys know I get hard as a rock reading this thread!!! I wish I was closer and could learn / help out where I could. Keep up the good work!!!!

 

[one2dmax]

I can probably score you a use Busa piston if needed. Let me know.

Sean

 

[RagingMain]

Think I would prefer to have the crank ground to the Busa journal specs. The Busa rods can be machined to the Vmax big end width without even getting close to the bearings. All in all it looks very do able... kinda cool. Cheap strong rods and more displacement. Almost sounds too good to be true... we'll see. You can just click on the email address below my name and send the info if that's ok.

I am not as knowledge as the others with this thread but would KISS apply here. Keep it Simple Sailor. Like Gary is talking about above.
Maybe I am looking at this wrong but if the crank was already going to be modified it does seem like it would less work, easier, to have the crank done to the Busa journal specs....Doesnt it???:confused2:

Only changing one thing instead of a bunch of others. Just wondering out loud.

 

[one2dmax]

crank rod journal spec is close enough there is no change needed. A couple of tenth's (ten thousands) is not going to make much difference.

Sean

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Sean,

I'd like to find out what the compression height dimension is for the Busa piston really don't need a piston. So don't go out of your way to get one. There's enough of my friends that must have them, just need to make some calls.

Thank you for the offer

 

[TURBOVMAX]

I just wanted to let you guys know I get hard as a rock reading this thread!!! I wish I was closer and could learn / help out where I could. Keep up the good work!!!!

Jeff,

You'll learn a lot as this thread progresses. I plan to put up lots of pictures, drawings,video and instructions for assembly.

 

[Dr.n2o]

Jeff,

You'll learn a lot as this thread progresses. I plan to put up lots of pictures, drawings,video and instructions for assembly.

Hey Gary, gonna need some 8X10 glossy colored photographs :biglaugh: