Morley Muscle Jet kit/ the adventure begins

[one2dmax]

LOL, it went out yesterday. You'll have to get with me when it's in for install help.

Sean

 

[vmaxinID]

Just got an Email from the little lady,

"you have a package from S. Morley!"

1.5 hrs till I get off work..tic..toc..tic..toc..tic..toc..tic..toc..tic..toc........

*UPDATE*
Here's what came in the kit...............

 

[one2dmax]

LOL, Holler at me with some specs and we'll start getting it running!

Sean

 

[vmaxinID]

ELEVATION: 4,300ft
Mains: Mikuini 150
pilot air jet #1 90 (stock)
Pilot air jet #2 170 (stock)
DJ Stage one needles @ 2.5
HMF Full Exhaust.
Each Idle screw set individualy set, 2.5 ish.

I have stock needles avaliable,
do I need stage 7's?

I have a Cali bike, not a 49 State.

 

[maleko89]

Try what you have first. At you elevation may have to go to 152.5 main jets. Needle is probably close...anywhere from 2.5 - 3.5.

 

[one2dmax]

ELEVATION: 4,300ft
Mains: Mikuini 150
pilot air jet #1 90 (stock)
Pilot air jet #2 170 (stock)
DJ Stage one needles @ 2.5
HMF Full Exhaust.
Each Idle screw set individualy set, 2.5 ish.

I have stock needles avaliable,
do I need stage 7's?

I have a Cali bike, not a 49 State.

Please refer to Marks carb removal thread for any questions on removing/installing the carbs.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3570

OK, pull the rack (either all the way off or enough to let them sit on the upper frame rails. Make sure to put a rag or towel over the open manifolds so nothing drops in there while you are working over it.

Install the air correctors using the small punch tool included in the kit. Flat side of the corrector goes downward. You'll know it is bottomed out when the tapping "tone" changes. It will be sitting down in there around .100 in the bores. They fit into the holes right next to the PAJ1's (which already has a brass sleeve installed from the factory way down inside).

Change the main jet next. Make sure that you either have drained the fuel already or do that before you flip the carb rack over. You can turn it over and put a catch can under the vent hoses.

Your application will probably like 157.5-160's. I would say to start with the 160 mains.

The easiest way to install the mains is by removing the access caps and cracking the existing jets loose with as good a fitting screwdriver as you can find. I have modified some before by taking some that have the right blade thickness and grinding down the excess width so it will fit through the hole. Once you have them cracked loose use a toothpick to extract the jet. Push the toothpick into the jet firmly and use it to turn it out the rest of the way. Push the new jet onto the pick and re-install. Don't be stingy with the picks and replace them if they don't feel snug in the jet.

With the jetting changed you can re-install the rack for the next part which can be a little tougher for some. The carb covers screws are many times a bitch. They get "frozen" up and are harder to take loose with the carbs moving around on the bench or frame. Not impossible but harder then they have to be.

Note: If you want to install the vent/cap assembly you will want to do that before you put the carbs on. See procedure after the slide mod.

I like to use a manual impact driver to break the bolts loose. Rap on the end with the driver in it's neutral or even tightening position then set it to loosen and give it a whack. Once you have the bolts all loosened up you can remove the covers and the springs/slides. If your slide/needle stack-up is stock you can leave them in if desired. Many times I at least pull one apart to check and make sure they have been assembled correctly and there hasn't been extra washers/shims installed. You'd be surprised how many I have pulled apart that they previous mechanic/owner reassembled the setup and didn't notice the tiny little nipple that sticks down and into the slide itself. This made the needle ride too high and cause an unwanted rich condition.

With the slides removed you will want to drill out the air transfer hole with the supplied drill bit. It won't take a lot and not a high speed drill motor. It is possible to even turn the bit by hand and do it but it's not too easy. I just use a cordless drill most of the time. Remember this is the hole that is already a decent size and you are enlarging it a little. The hole is off to the edge and just right next to the inner wall of the slide. The new bit will actually be just big enough that you will see the side of the bit just marking the inner wall of the slide as it passes into the inside while you are drilling.

Clean off the slides next to remove any drilling debris. I like to use brake cleaner but I also avoid spraying it directly on the rubber diaphragm parts. One thing to note is to inspect the diaphragm for wear and tears. This can greatly affect their operation. These suckers are expensive so treat them with care too. For now you can leave the PAJ2 stock. Re-install the slides and use the supplied shorter springs.

You will have received a modified oil fill cap (you actually got a stage seven cap and soon I will have custom caps included with the kit). What we are doing is tying the engines crankcase into the carbs to get a vacuum in the crankcase. This aids in ring seal and the higher the RPM the greater this effect is.

You can install the oil fill cap at any time but you will want to install the "T" adapter and hose before you mount the carbs back up. Remove the PCV line from the crankcase ("S" shaped 1/2" id hose). This is the hose that attaches to the bottom of the airbox and down to the middle of the block. With it removed cut off about 1" from the bottom of the hose and discard that piece. You will also cut the hose about 1.5" from the top but keep that section. Take the "T" that was supplied and shorten the top and bottom barbs. You don't need it nearly that long. I would say to leave it 2 ribs long. You can shorten the center barb but leave it a bit longer. Install the ends of the "T" into the top sections of the hose - orientate the center barb so that it's facing rearward. You can attach the supplied hose on the center barb leaving the full length for now. Re-install the new PCV setup. Getting the newly trimmed hose back on the block can sometimes be a challenge if your hose is old and has hardened up. It's not impossible but is why I suggest to have the carbs off. Once this is on you can install the carbs. If you've already installed the carbs you can still get this part on but it's a hell of a lot more challenging. The center barb and hose should be just under the carb rack cross brace facing towards the rear of the bike. There should be enough PCV hose sticking up to reconnect to the airbox.

Note: You can paint the supplied hose or get some fancy covering for it to pretty it up. If you really wanted to get fancy you could even get true braided line and fittings and make your own splice.

With that done and the carbs back on you can go ahead and get the airbox ready to install. Swap out the new filtered lid you received with your stock lid. Remove any existing filter since you now have a HUGE filter doing the job! Cleaning the filter is just as easy as getting the stock type filter off. Remove the lid, clean the filter (with it still in the lid), and re-install.

Re-install the airbox and ensure the boots are all the way down on the carbs. You can re-attach the modified PCV line now too. It's a lot easier to do if you lift out the coolant overflow tank and reach in through that access area.

With that box back on you will now want to attach the hose from the PCV to the oil fill cap. Route it down and over keeping it a little ways from any headers and cutting it to length so it fits on the modified oil cap.

With that done you can go ahead and get the bike ready to start. I like to cycle the ignition switch on and off a few times to let the bowls fill with fuel. Once it's full then hit the key and fire it up! Let the engine warm up then sync the carbs. Keep in mind that any adjustment you make to the carbs - even a/f screws - requires another sync to get the carbs set correctly. Don't have the idle higher then needed to run either (I like 800-1000rpm). You can change the idle higher after you have them synced.

Go and give it a test run and fine tune it from there. If you are getting a surging on the highway you can try swapping the PAJ2's with the 177.5 jets that were supplied.

For other problems, some have needed to add a washer to the needles and some have simply swapped the springs back to stock springs. You may need to go up or down on your jets but usually I get you pretty close.

Typical results are mid 120's rwhp (some have 130's and some lower) and low 80's torque. Fuel economy is typically 38-42 but of course that is all subjective to riding habits ect...

Happy riding!

Sean Morley

 

[vmaxinID]

Do you see better results with Stage one needles, or Stock?

 

[one2dmax]

Stock needles normally work very well. You can use stage seven needles but I set the kit to work quite well with stock needles.

Sean

 

[vmaxinID]

So if I run stock needles do you suggest any shimming for the initial install?

With stock needles, mains are huge,

with stage 7 needles, mains are closer to stock?

Where do my stage one needles fit into these equations?

Straight up, I am looking for the best mileage, with the best HP I can get.....(but who isn't) unk:

Do I need to put the "Dab of Glue" in with the correctors?

 

[one2dmax]

You can put the dab of glue in but they don't normally want to come out (you have to take them out with a screw extractor).

The stage seven needles are much more aggressive and need smaller mains. Try the stock needles first. HP will be within 1-2 is all normally. Fuel mileage is better with stockers. 38-42 MPH is what most achieve.

You can use stage 1's but I haven't had the best of luck with them. If you have them you will need to play around with clip settings to see what the midrange likes. Probably start with 2nd clip and same jetting as stock recommendations.

Sean Morley

 

[vmaxinID]

So if I run stock needles do you suggest any shimming for the initial install?

Just one last question.............

For now that is.:whistlin:

 

[maleko89]

You can put the dab of glue in but they don't normally want to come out (you have to take them out with a screw extractor).

The stage seven needles are much more aggressive and need smaller mains. Try the stock needles first. HP will be within 1-2 is all normally. Fuel mileage is better with stockers. 38-42 MPH is what most achieve.

You can use stage 1's but I haven't had the best of luck with them. If you have them you will need to play around with clip settings to see what the midrange likes. Probably start with 2nd clip and same jetting as stock recommendations.

Sean Morley

I'm afraid it's my fault he wants to use stage 7 needles. In my case I got better mileage with those than with 165 mains and stock needles. I kept having needle to main transitiion problems. By the time that and the top end was fixed it was running a tad rich from 3-5000 rpms so mileage suffered. I don't know, maybe I adjusted my valves a bit too tight....or my exhaust doesn't provide enough back pressure

 

[maleko89]

So if I run stock needles do you suggest any shimming for the initial install?

Just one last question.............

For now that is.:whistlin:

Try w/o first and do the needle tests that are outlined in the Carbs section.

 

[vmaxinID]

So if I run stock needles do you suggest any shimming for the initial install?

I ain't your fault Mark,

I just wanna try out all possibilities (stock, stage 1, stage 7) so I can relay personal experience to my vmax bros here in the local area. (we're up to like 5!)

$200 is a great price for 20% power gains.

 

[vmaxinID]

Try w/o first and do the needle tests that are outlined in the Carbs section.

Ok,

Jeeze it's like going back and taking a 101 course right before I get my Masters.

Damn needle tests, Main jet tests, I'm schmart though I can dew it.

Dyno to come, hopefully by the end of the month.

Install begins 2night!!!

 

[shawn kloker]

I'm afraid it's my fault he wants to use stage 7 needles. In my case I got better mileage with those than with 165 mains and stock needles. I kept having needle to main transitiion problems. By the time that and the top end was fixed it was running a tad rich from 3-5000 rpms so mileage suffered. I don't know, maybe I adjusted my valves a bit too tight....or my exhaust doesn't provide enough back pressure

Mark,If you twist the thottle a little quicker and farther, maybe down shift a gear or 2 it will become alot less of a big deal! LOL!

 

[shawn kloker]

Mark,If you twist the thottle a little quicker and farther, maybe down shift a gear or 2 it will become alot less of a big deal! LOL!

?

 

[shawn kloker]

?

Unless you were doing one of those s&s fifth gear roll-ons from 2000 rpm's ,uphill.

 

[vmaxinID]

*SHOUT OUT*

if I didn't have bad luck I'd have no luck.

I just pulled my spare carbs apart to get out the needles.......

They are also stage one......:bang head:

So I have 8 stage one needles and nothing else.

So, anybody wanna trade, sell, or freebie me a set of stock needles??????:confused2:

 

[4gasem]

This house is clean... Let's keep it on track.