Morley's Muscle Kit and Nitrous Install

[one2dmax]

Garrett. Not sure what he is using but I did find a switch and pump to go with the rest of the parts.
Sean

 

[gamorg02]

sweeeeeeeeet

 

[gamorg02]

heres a question. I am probably going to go without a horn switch and just going to do an arming switch and then a WOT switch...

It seems i can just put them in series on the back end of the circuit after the solenoids to ground to complete the circuit...

So, does the fuel pump need to turn on when the system is armed? or can it wait until the circuit is completed for the WOT and arm switch? Seems to me there might be too much delay and you'll want the fuel pressurized prior to turning on the whole system.

Also,

should i tap into my headlight line (which runs 3a heated grips no problem) and i'd never run the system with the heated grips though, or should i make a straight non key switched line that just powers the whole system off the battery?

 

[KJShover]

heres a question. I am probably going to go without a horn switch and just going to do an arming switch and then a WOT switch...

It seems i can just put them in series on the back end of the circuit after the solenoids to ground to complete the circuit...

So, does the fuel pump need to turn on when the system is armed? or can it wait until the circuit is completed for the WOT and arm switch? Seems to me there might be too much delay and you'll want the fuel pressurized prior to turning on the whole system.

Also,

should i tap into my headlight line (which runs 3a heated grips no problem) and i'd never run the system with the heated grips though, or should i make a straight non key switched line that just powers the whole system off the battery?

Once your armed your fuel pump for the system should be going and pressurizing the fuel solenoid.

I wouldn't tie into any part of the electrical system. Make your own mini harness with fuses, then wire it directly to the battery.

 

[gamorg02]

Once your armed your fuel pump for the system should be going and pressurizing the fuel solenoid.

I wouldn't tie into any part of the electrical system. Make your own mini harness with fuses, then wire it directly to the battery.

check. i got my wiring then down. i'll T off of the main line then goto the solenoid with one branch and the pump with the other. I will then put the WOT switch in series next to the solenoids. then I will T them back together to ground with the arming switch in series once them come together.

 

[KJShover]

sounds good!

 

[gamorg02]

if i do a purge solenoid i can also put it in a parallel circuit that needs its own switch but still ties in to need the arming switch as well..

 

[hubeerjw]

if i do a purge solenoid i can also put it in a parallel circuit that needs its own switch but still ties in to need the arming switch as well..

You can do either... the only reason to NOT tie it into your arming switch is so you can turn your bottle on and purge the system without running your fuel pump.... this would mostly be for show. I will warn you, the fuel pump will NOT like staying on for very long, most of them are NOT continuous duty pumps.

I'm not a very "flashy" guy, but I sure did use the purge quite a bit... it's just too fun! Get yourself some colored LEDs and put in front of your purge exit.

I think there are some pics of my WOT switch somewhere... it was a VERY simple bracket bolted to a screw in the carbs.... I'll try to find it for you.

Jeff

 

[gamorg02]

if i do a purge solenoid i can also put it in a parallel circuit that needs its own switch but still ties in to need the arming switch as well..

You can do either... the only reason to NOT tie it into your arming switch is so you can turn your bottle on and purge the system without running your fuel pump.... this would mostly be for show. I will warn you, the fuel pump will NOT like staying on for very long, most of them are NOT continuous duty pumps.

I'm not a very "flashy" guy, but I sure did use the purge quite a bit... it's just too fun! Get yourself some colored LEDs and put in front of your purge exit.

I think there are some pics of my WOT switch somewhere... it was a VERY simple bracket bolted to a screw in the carbs.... I'll try to find it for you.

Jeff

I follow, any reason I can't T off my oem fuel line as a follow up question? Should I worry about flow or pump contention?

How did u get ur pump psi readings? Does that hobs switch have a gauge too?

 

[tugla]

hey garrett just started reading this so your putting on a bottle, awesome cant wait to see that. looks like its a slim chance i'll make the BR2010 so will have to be on the next ride in summer or fall.

 

[hubeerjw]

I'm not sure about the amount of flow/pressure you will get from the stock fuel pump.... if you are sticking with a 40 shot you will most likely be o.k... but that is just a guess. If you read my post, I made a completely separate fuel system for mine... I took out the tank drain plug and made my own fittings to feed the NX fuel pump that came with my system. I didn't want to chance the OEM fuel system to 'NOT' have enough pressure or volume to handle the extra shot. What I would recommend it getting a cheap ($15) pressure gauge, and see what the current (stock) pressure is. Then put in your correct fuel jet into the nitrous nozzle, and see if the pressure drops. Ideally, this would be done while the bike is being ridden at WOT, and the "extra" fuel from your nitrous shot could just be running into a extra tank (or even on the ground for the short amount of time you would be testing this). I would just hate for you to run too lean and blow your motor. Do you have access to a dyno close by?

 

[gamorg02]

hey garrett just started reading this so your putting on a bottle, awesome cant wait to see that. looks like its a slim chance i'll make the BR2010 so will have to be on the next ride in summer or fall.

yea, def won't be ready by BR10 unless i haul my ***.

depends tho, if i could get some locals to come help me out a couple nights it just might be...

I'm not sure about the amount of flow/pressure you will get from the stock fuel pump.... if you are sticking with a 40 shot you will most likely be o.k... but that is just a guess. If you read my post, I made a completely separate fuel system for mine... I took out the tank drain plug and made my own fittings to feed the NX fuel pump that came with my system. I didn't want to chance the OEM fuel system to 'NOT' have enough pressure or volume to handle the extra shot. What I would recommend it getting a cheap ($15) pressure gauge, and see what the current (stock) pressure is. Then put in your correct fuel jet into the nitrous nozzle, and see if the pressure drops. Ideally, this would be done while the bike is being ridden at WOT, and the "extra" fuel from your nitrous shot could just be running into a extra tank (or even on the ground for the short amount of time you would be testing this). I would just hate for you to run too lean and blow your motor. Do you have access to a dyno close by?

hey jeff, i was actually planning on using the aux fuel pump, but just wondering if it was OK to T that into the existing fuel line before the other fuel pump? If i had to run a separate line into the tank basically, like you did.

i still haven't thrown out the idea of using the stock fuel pump, but would need to do some testing to find out what kind of pressure it can put out max. good thing is the pump only has 14k miles on it, and never had an issue with it before...

i am probably going to try to start off with a 16 shot just to test things and try to go up near 40 max. i want to keep the bike reliable....

oh and yea theres a great dyno shop 5 miles from work i can swing by there and get readings if i need to. probably pretty cheap b/c i've given them some good business, the bike is running perfect right now, so it seems if i keep with the well known jet sizes i should be good and check the plugs.

 

[gamorg02]

Hey Jeff, i also found your switch pics. Where did you end up mounting the aux fuel pump?

I'm thinking i may have to go back to COPs and mount where the rear coils are.

 

[gamorg02]

thinking of picking this up:

on/off would be the arm switch and the 'starter' switch would use the purge solenoid..

thoughts?

http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Motion_Pro_RightHand_Handlebar_Switch--647167.html

 

[KJShover]

Hey Jeff, i also found your switch pics. Where did you end up mounting the aux fuel pump?

I'm thinking i may have to go back to COPs and mount where the rear coils are.

Keep in mind Garret that alot of the pumps that come with pre-packaged systems will push the fuel a hell of alot better than pulling it, making thier location the closer to the fuel tank the better.

Find out what your pump is better at doing.

 

[gamorg02]

Keep in mind Garret that alot of the pumps that come with pre-packaged systems will push the fuel a hell of alot better than pulling it, making thier location the closer to the fuel tank the better.

Find out what your pump is better at doing.

noted KJ. thanks. Where are your foggers btw? airbox? pretty well hidden eh?

whats ur thoughts on the switch?

is it really a huge no no to even consider trying to see what the pressure the OE pump can provide?

 

[KJShover]

noted KJ. thanks. Where are your foggers btw? airbox? pretty well hidden eh? In the airbox, attached to the stacks normally, right now on my workbench. I'm thinking of going with the predator nozzles.

whats ur thoughts on the switch? I like it, wish I thought of it.

is it really a huge no no to even consider trying to see what the pressure the OE pump can provide? It wouldn't hurt to have a look.

I don't feel comfortable T-ing off of things. I've always built my systems to be indipendant of everything. I'm redoing my system (again) I know how I want it now, after playing around. it's alot easier to plumb my old dragbike and other motorcycles, than this one. I like the clean look.


I'm going to go back with the Wizard of NOS pulsars (I should have never sold that setup), with predator nozzles and a holley fuel pump.


This fall, the fuel tank is comming out and a hole is going to get cut where the drain plug is and a new bung attached so I can mount a pingle on-off valve.


I'm trying to talk a friend of mine into milling new velocity stacks out of aluminum and then tapping them for the nozzles. I'don't like the idea of a nut comming loose from the nozzle then dropping down into my carbs. I had lock tight on them but it's somthing thats always been in the back of my mind. With the tapped aluminum stacks replacing the stock plastics I'll feel alot better about it. If I end up with a Stage 7, over morley's kit (I think I may have a freebie on a stg 7) I'll just have him make a straight velocity stacks to attach to the carbs then the indi filters will attach to them.


Then I'm planning on taking the feed from the twin tanks to a single 3/8" hardline that will feed the N2O solenoid. to help clean things up more. When I was pulling the system off, it was really ugly. That was a comment I heard a few times at last years car show too. UGLYYYY install. It looked good from a distance but when you actually got up close and started looking around it got pretty bad.

 

[gamorg02]

I don't feel comfortable T-ing off of things. I've always built my systems to be indipendant of everything. I'm redoing my system (again) I know how I want it now, after playing around. it's alot easier to plumb my old dragbike and other motorcycles, than this one. I like the clean look.


I'm going to go back with the Wizard of NOS pulsars (I should have never sold that setup), with predator nozzles and a holley fuel pump.


This fall, the fuel tank is comming out and a hole is going to get cut where the drain plug is and a new bung attached so I can mount a pingle on-off valve.


I'm trying to talk a friend of mine into milling new velocity stacks out of aluminum and then tapping them for the nozzles. I'don't like the idea of a nut comming loose from the nozzle then dropping down into my carbs. I had lock tight on them but it's somthing thats always been in the back of my mind. With the tapped aluminum stacks replacing the stock plastics I'll feel alot better about it. If I end up with a Stage 7, over morley's kit (I think I may have a freebie on a stg 7) I'll just have him make a straight velocity stacks to attach to the carbs then the indi filters will attach to them.


Then I'm planning on taking the feed from the twin tanks to a single 3/8" hardline that will feed the N2O solenoid. to help clean things up more. When I was pulling the system off, it was really ugly. That was a comment I heard a few times at last years car show too. UGLYYYY install. It looked good from a distance but when you actually got up close and started looking around it got pretty bad.

yea, first step will get it looking 'ok' and 'functional' and not 'fly off the bike at decent speeds', then we'll get **** put together more permanently...

I appreciate the answers. few more questions.

1. where is your fuel pump mounted?
1a. where do you have your fuel coming in from for said fuel pump

2. do you mind taking some pictures of how your tanks are mounted? and your insides of your airbox?
I may have to go with your size tanks as I have a lot of bolt on **** on the side of my engine and i don't want to clutter up any saddlebag spots since i use them every other weekend in the summer may - july. and whats the point of traveling if its w/out Nitrous?!


yea the stage 7 install may be easier in some regards but harder in others to shove nitrous in. good news is theres gotta be a ton more room to work with...

thanks KJ. really apprecaite the answers. gonna order that switch soon, wish there was something 'snazzier' but for $30 it will get the job done initially... even w/out a purge solenoid.

 

[KJShover]

yea, first step will get it looking 'ok' and 'functional' and not 'fly off the bike at decent speeds', then we'll get **** put together more permanently...

I appreciate the answers. few more questions.

1. where is your fuel pump mounted?

Under the tank, I did the same thing Jeff did, just popped out the drain plug and put in a 90 fitting.

1a. where do you have your fuel coming in from for said fuel pump

It came up and over the batt, and then into the airbox.

2. do you mind taking some pictures of how your tanks are mounted? and your insides of your airbox?

Tanks are mounted with hoseclamps to the frame braces, then the lines go to a "T" then the single N2O line goes into the airbox. The foggers and solenoids are out of the airbox, but picture a version of the pic below. That is where I stole the idea for the Vmax

I may have to go with your size tanks as I have a lot of bolt on **** on the side of my engine and i don't want to clutter up any saddlebag spots since i use them every other weekend in the summer may - july. and whats the point of traveling if its w/out Nitrous?!


yea the stage 7 install may be easier in some regards but harder in others to shove nitrous in. good news is theres gotta be a ton more room to work with...

thanks KJ. really apprecaite the answers. gonna order that switch soon, wish there was something 'snazzier' but for $30 it will get the job done initially... even w/out a purge solenoid.

Here is a great page of an install. Full of pictures so you can get ideas.
http://www.nitromax.nl/index.htm

 

[gamorg02]

thanks man. i'll have to take a peak under my tank to see where mounting the pump is doable. looks like thats a smarter idea if i do go with an aux.

still not ruling out the OE pump. i gotta figure out a way to test that. to the drawing board. i'll post back in a while...