Toasted my rec/reg

[dmax1]

The rec/reg has been on my 85 Max for a couple years. It has a direct hot wire to the battery and the heavy ground wire to the frame and battery Today I went for a ride and was about home when the bike just quit. I had tried to start it again and found the battery was low. I placed my hand on the foot peg were the rec/reg is mounted and it was smoking hot. Coasted downhill for a couple of miles and pushed her home. The pictures tell the story. All of the wiring is OK. Stator is within specs. I am baffled as to what happen. :confused2: Any Ideas would be appreciated. Also what would be a good replacement.

 

[Rhoy Carter]

The older RR were grounded through the frame, later model RR has fins and a ground wire, replace it with the later model

 

[PATMAX]

I got my new
Style R/R from CaptainKyle. Maybe he has more. You'll have to ask at
[email protected]

 

[CaptainKyle]

I have a new style factory yamaha one with 4,000 miles on it $ 50 plus shipping.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

You should run your RR by the main fuse before going to battery, otherwise you can burn your battery if the RR is faulty...

 

[Dr.n2o]

http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/yamaha/vmx1200-v-max-85-88.html?pt=regulators+/+rectifiers May have to sand the paint off the back a little but I've been running one of these for about 5 years now with odyssey pc680.....no issues

 

[one2dmax]

I've got new aftermarket units on hand as well.

 

[dmax1]

You should run your RR by the main fuse before going to battery, otherwise you can burn your battery if the RR is faulty...

I had put a inline fuse in the wire to the battery when I had repaired the 3 wire connection last time.

 

[Rollie]

I've got new aftermarket units on hand as well.

Are they better than the stock upgraded VMax or R-1 ? How much ? Send me a P.M. as well please , as I have another request .

 

[Fire-medic]

You might want to check the wires coming from the stator engine side cover as well, the wires in my 1992 had deteriorated insulation outside of the thru-plug, the case penetration piece made of rubber. I taped them up individually but will need to use some heat shrink tubing on them to make a better repair.

 

[Bill Seward]

Lose the plug, and solder the wires to the stator. Any plug causes resistance, and resistance means heat. I melted the original plug on my Max...
Old style units bled off excess voltage by producing heat, they all ran really hot. My '85's R/R used to get hot too - the trick is to get the new style unit. It does the same job but in a totally different way, one which doesn't make the damn thing get hot. I've had an Electrosport in my bike for a few years now, and it's been 100% reliable. Money well spent!

 

[johnpclynch]

Mine went up in smoke too, replace it with a bigger/better one add an extra ground wire

 

[RaWarrior]

This is why I don't like shunt R/Rs and suggest people toss them even if (at the moment) they're working fine. It went up in smoke because it's old and decided to die. They get old, get more voltage losses(which increases amperage for equivalent watts), which makes more heat, which becomes a continuing cycle until they go poof.


You can get COPs and a modern MOSFET sportbike r/r off ebay for less than $50.

My COPs cost $25 and my ZX14 r/r cost $20. The bigger finned r/r lives on the plate that used to hold the rear coils. It neatly fits under the seat, the stator wires reach without extension, and since it's literally on top of the battery there is very minimal wiring losses since the + wire is about 2" long.