Trouble above 7K rpms

[naughtyG]

Check out the sticky threads in the forum under technical - carb/tuning - there's full instructions for just about everything.

This is the best one for carbs removal:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3570
including a bit of leg ;-)

 

[HDKILA]

To remove, detach rear line and then slide forward for easy access.

Use a clear one from a local auto parts store. Get the one for 3/8 inch fuel line. It's a Purlator 806. The cores are replaceable and cheap. I believe I got 3 cores for $5.

I would remove carbs and check your vboost. There are three adjustments. Adjuster clearance, cable tension and sync clearance.

I got the carbs off and did the adjustments. I do not know how to do the Synch clearance or the cable tension. The cable definetly had some slack in it and I compensated by adjusting the screw with the nut all the way out. It now seems to be perfect.

I test rode the bike and still having problems. I bought new spark plugs today as well. Any chance it could be those before I try tearing into the carbs?

Thanks,
Abe

 

[HDKILA]

I also completly disconnected the vboost and left it fully open with no luck...

 

[maleko89]

Have a multimeter? Test the Ohms from terminal in plug boot to engine ground.

 

[HDKILA]

Have a multimeter? Test the Ohms from terminal in plug boot to engine ground.

I do...what should they read?

 

[maleko89]

Between 19K and 22K Ohms. Will be higher side if you're running stock spark plug boots as opposed to NGK.

 

[HDKILA]

Between 19K and 22K Ohms. Will be higher side if you're running stock spark plug boots as opposed to NGK.

20.6 on the right side and 22.0 and 22.1 on the left side cylinders...what next?

Thanks,
Abe

 

[Storloc]

I've had nasty carb problems due to tank rust before and can say with confidence that Max carbs are some touchy bastards. Mine was a very fine powder like rust that was actually going through the filter and collecting in the float bowls which was then clumping up and causing havoc. If you have rust in the tank you may as well plan on getting that taken care of first then fully breaking down and cleaning the carbs. If you found mice in the airbox I think it's safe to say the bike has sat for an extended amount of time most likely with fuel in it as well.

 

[naughtyG]

Yea I had an identical problem with the Honda CM200T. Rusty tank meant that the fine rust powder was getting right through the fuel filter, and nothing helped.
In the end coating the tank with Kreem was the solution, and obviously a full cleanup after that.

Its carb throttle still sticks a little sometimes, but it's more due to lack of riding as wifey keeps taking the car instead :bang head:

 

[maleko89]

HD, drain a float bowl and see what comes out. there's a sticky post in the Carbs section showing how to do this.

 

[HDKILA]

HD, drain a float bowl and see what comes out. there's a sticky post in the Carbs section showing how to do this.

I'm gonna do that right now...is it worth throwing new plugs in there yet? Could it be a bad plug?

 

[HDKILA]

I just drained all 4 carbs there is some black grit in there...not alot but enough to see on the bottom of the cup I used...any thoughts?

 

[HDKILA]

What is the gap supposed to be on these plugs? Also how tight should the plug be with the TQ wrench...Yamaha says 28-32 on the plugs... is that right?

I just checked one of the plugs and it looked good but the gap was 36-37...should I check the rest?

 

[maleko89]

I would check plugs to see how they look. Gap is about .035 inches.

I don't torque the plugs. I put anti seize on the threads and just snug 'em.

 

[HDKILA]

I would check plugs to see how they look. Gap is about .035 inches.

I don't torque the plugs. I put anti seize on the threads and just snug 'em.

Did you see that I edited my post about the carb bowl drains not being as clean as I thought...a little bit of black rit on the bottom of the cup I used.

 

[naughtyG]

That means you most definitely have mice poop in there..

You gonna need to clean those carbs up good and proper. But b4 u do that you gotta make sure your tank is clean, otherwise you're wasting your time. There's a drain plug at the bottom of the tank so you can use that to flush it, and as long as it's not too rusty you'll be ok.
If there's plenty of rust, either replace the tank or coat it with Kreem or similar.

As posted earlier, rust dust is so fine that no fuel filter will catch it. So you gotta eliminate the source before treating the symptoms..

 

[maleko89]

Yeah, just noticed. You may want to shorten the gap a bit. Here's the gap range.

0.031 - 0.035 in

 

[HDKILA]

Any suggestions on when I drain it how to clean the inside really well? Should I spray some wd40 in there and rinse it out...Whats the best way to do this?


Once this is complete do I "shotgun" the carbs or just run some seafoam through there to clean it out?

 

[naughtyG]

2 be honest if you leave it in the bike there's not that much you can do, apart from draining and hoping that most of the shit comes out.. it's not like you can 'shake the bike' lol..
At least once it's drained you can take a good look in there through the filler hole, but be REALLY CAREFUL not to make any sparks!

I guess you could also throw your garden water hose in there and flush it as good as you can, and once it definitely runs clear, you'll need to attach a compressed air hose and leave it blowing at low pressure for a couple of days to make sure all water dries out b4 refilling with gas.

But if there's real nasty stuff like rust in there, it's Kreem coating or replacement, for sure.

 

[maleko89]

Wd 40 will cause problems. Best way to clean the float bowl is to remove bank and split them into pairs. The drain hold is just to small to get all of the debris. Too many places it can get caught up in there.