Trouble above 7K rpms

[HDKILA]

2 be honest if you leave it in the bike there's not that much you can do, apart from draining and hoping that most of the **** comes out.. it's not like you can 'shake the bike' lol..
At least once it's drained you can take a good look in there through the filler hole, but be REALLY CAREFUL not to make any sparks!

I guess you could also throw your garden water hose in there and flush it as good as you can, and once it definitely runs clear, you'll need to attach a compressed air hose and leave it blowing at low pressure for a couple of days to make sure all water dries out b4 refilling with gas.

But if there's real nasty stuff like rust in there, it's Kreem coating or replacement, for sure.

Do I have to remove all the sensors in the tank if I put that Kreem in?

I just finished draining the tank. Would it be a good idea to pour some sea foam in the tank and let it sit for a few hours then drain again....would that help with the grit? I really DO NOT want to take the tank off the bike...

Thanks,
Abe

 

[m-cman]

I would not recommend Kreme in any tank. It is ok for new tanks but if you do not get a rusty tank perfectly clean, it will delaminate in time. When that happens your tank is toast. I have used several types of tank sealers (Kreme, POR, Eastwood's system and KBS Coatings) and right now my favorite is KBS Coatings. It is a 3 step process but is an epoxy coating instead of a rubber type coating. I have done two tanks with it and it is great. Just follow the instructions to the letter!!

There are instructions for removing the tank on this site and it is not really hard.

 

[HDKILA]

After I am all done with the tank cleaning will "pauls peashooter method" be enough to clean my carbs?

It looks pretty simple but is there a certain order to do the carbs in? I see the pics and am a little confused with pilot jet #1 and 2.

Thanks,
Abe

 

[maleko89]

You don't need to worry about PAJ2 for the Peashooter. PAJ1 is on the top of each carb as shown. Use a straw to get it down the velocity stack and into PAJ1.

 

[HDKILA]

You don't need to worry about PAJ2 for the Peashooter. PAJ1 is on the top of each carb as shown. Use a straw to get it down the velocity stack and into PAJ1.

I purchased the seafoam in a can with the straw nozzle. Will a short blast of that be too much in the PAJ1?

Thanks,
Abe

 

[maleko89]

Should be okay. I usually use a 1/2 straw full of Seafoam.

 

[HDKILA]

I'm going to order a new gas tank...any suggestions?

Is there a plastic tank option?

Thanks,
Abe

 

[HDKILA]

Also will an 86 gas tank fit an 85?

Thanks,
Abe

 

[Storloc]

According to starmotorcycles website the 85 & 86 tanks are the same part number. I noticed most online parts stores dont list the 85 so you might just check the numbers on starmotorcycles for reference. I'd imagine most parts will be the same as an 86 though.

I do believe there is a plastic tank option but I believe its pretty expensive even compared to oem. I don't know who makes it though.

 

[gleno]

:hmmm: I've just read this thread and I'd like to throw in my 2 cents worth.

You have an old bike with a suspect maintenance history (mice in the air filter box!!!).

30k is nothing for a V-max motor. Mine has 63k and still pulls strong while other guys on the forum have over 100k on theirs and are happy.

I have an '88 model and I can tell you now that tinkering with the fuel system is not the answer to sorting the problems. You need to pull the fuel system out, i.e. tank, fuel filter, fuel lines, carbs inlet boots, v-boost inlets, manifold bridges and the bottom manifolds to the heads.

Why? Because the rubber fittings on your bike are well past their use by date. O-rings on the lower manifolds will be compressed, dry and heat hardened, rubber manifold inlets will be the same, o-rings in the carbs will be compressed and hardened, rubber bungs in the jet block will be hardened and shrunken, fuel line will be perished and decomposing into you fuel pump and carbs etc.

The simple fact is that every rubber o-ring, oil seal and manifold piece on that bike will be in a similar condition. Once you start tinkering you are going to break those aging seals and they just won't re-seal the same.

How do I know? Because I have been down the path you are traveling.

Unless you want to keep looking for minor faults over and over again, do it all, do it once and do it properly. :thumbs up:

 

[Thevmaxrider]

+1 to that. With a bike that age you are running up against the lifespan of the rubber parts. Once you begin taking things apart leaks will appear. Take your time, do it once, do it right. Getting in a hurry here will cause you more headaches down the road.

 

[maxcruiser]

HDKILA, I think Gleno is right. Being over a 20 year old bike, with an unknown maintenance history to you, the bike needs a complete fuel system and electrical check over. This will eliminate alot of minor gremilins and make your ownership experience much better.

As for the engine, a simple compression check will determine it's condition.

As I mentioned when you were looking at buying the other 88 max - add +/- $1000 to the purchase price for parts to get the bike reconditioned.

Mike

 

[HDKILA]

I can tell that the carb was definetly gone through. Everything on there is brand new. The tank had a good amount of rust in it. I am trying to the get the ****** off and have it hanging completly disconnected except I can't get it to slide out the LHS!

Any suggestions? It does not seem to fit out...

 

[maleko89]

Did you take off the removalbe section of the frame?

 

[HDKILA]

Did you take off the removalbe section of the frame?

Yes I did...I have the gas tank wedged right now...it's almost out but it's now stuck!

 

[maleko89]

Instructions courtesy of Sam B.

1) Remove exhaust and shocks. Removed both front and rear seats, remove both side covers (VMAX insignias).
2) Dropped wheel/swingarm down. Drained fuel from tank (drain plug)
3) Took footpeg bracket (LHS) and removable vertical frame section
off. Left the footpeg bracket hanging down without taking rect/reg off.
4) Undid the 3 bolts holding rear fender to frame and sat fender on
rear tyre. Did not dissconnect any wiring from fender (tail light loom)
5) Removed mudguard (one phillips head bolt) from fuel tank, facing
tyre.
6) Removed fuel filter from top of tank. Left fuel line attached to
top of tank. Removed fuel filler cap and rubber spill trough from top
of tank filler neck.
7) Remove overflow hose from rubber spill trough.
8) Remove breather hose from top of tank RHS.
9) Undo 2 tank retainer bolts from top of tank one on either side
of filler neck. Take note of how this assembly goes back...bolt, large
washer, plastic alignment washer. Take off as one unit. Remove the
rubber grommet below this assembly which is between this assembly
and the frame tank mounting plate (basically a round steel piece with
hole in it which is part of frame) you will need to put this back in the
sam order.
10) Remove locking tank cap. Remove fuel level gauge electrical
plug from harness just next to rear brake master cylinder.
11) Slide tank towards rear of bike to dissengage tank support tang
from rubber bush sitting on horizontal frame tube just below battery. It
is a tight fit but will come out with a bit of muscle. Mine came out and
the rubber bush fell on the ground.
12) Pull tank straight out on LHS of bike (plenty of room).
13) Put tank back the reverse.

I fitted a new fuel level gauge, new factory "O" ring seal for this
unit, new mounting bolt gaskets for this unit. All genuine parts,
very cheap. Fit rubber frame isolator grommets to new tank (take off the
old one) on each side of tank and fit the front (next to battery)
rubber frame grommet onto steel plate at front of tank. Install tank, push
tank firmly forward till the front rubber grommet engages the tube frame
rail > below battery...the rest is a reverse of removal.

 

[HDKILA]

Instructions courtesy of Sam B.

1) Remove exhaust and shocks. Removed both front and rear seats, remove both side covers (VMAX insignias).
2) Dropped wheel/swingarm down. Drained fuel from tank (drain plug)
3) Took footpeg bracket (LHS) and removable vertical frame section
off. Left the footpeg bracket hanging down without taking rect/reg off.
4) Undid the 3 bolts holding rear fender to frame and sat fender on
rear tyre. Did not dissconnect any wiring from fender (tail light loom)
5) Removed mudguard (one phillips head bolt) from fuel tank, facing
tyre.
6) Removed fuel filter from top of tank. Left fuel line attached to
top of tank. Removed fuel filler cap and rubber spill trough from top
of tank filler neck.
7) Remove overflow hose from rubber spill trough.
8) Remove breather hose from top of tank RHS.
9) Undo 2 tank retainer bolts from top of tank one on either side
of filler neck. Take note of how this assembly goes back...bolt, large
washer, plastic alignment washer. Take off as one unit. Remove the
rubber grommet below this assembly which is between this assembly
and the frame tank mounting plate (basically a round steel piece with
hole in it which is part of frame) you will need to put this back in the
sam order.
10) Remove locking tank cap. Remove fuel level gauge electrical
plug from harness just next to rear brake master cylinder.
11) Slide tank towards rear of bike to dissengage tank support tang
from rubber bush sitting on horizontal frame tube just below battery. It
is a tight fit but will come out with a bit of muscle. Mine came out and
the rubber bush fell on the ground.
12) Pull tank straight out on LHS of bike (plenty of room).
13) Put tank back the reverse.

I fitted a new fuel level gauge, new factory "O" ring seal for this
unit, new mounting bolt gaskets for this unit. All genuine parts,
very cheap. Fit rubber frame isolator grommets to new tank (take off the
old one) on each side of tank and fit the front (next to battery)
rubber frame grommet onto steel plate at front of tank. Install tank, push
tank firmly forward till the front rubber grommet engages the tube frame
rail > below battery...the rest is a reverse of removal.

Those were the exact directions I followed. Do I need to remove the rear tire? Also I have a supertrapp exhaust. Will that make a difference?

Thanks,
Abe

 

[Thevmaxrider]

I would remove the exhaust and the rear tire (just to get room to work if for nothing else). Take your time and don't get frustrated. Trust me, I can remove my engine fairly easily so you can get the tank out.

 

[maleko89]

Sam removed the mufflers but left the wheel on. The swingarm will swing down a bit when on center stand.

 

[m-cman]

I did the exact thing Gleno is talking about. Replaced EVERY replaceable item in the carbs and the complete fuel system, including air screw assemblies, all rubber manifolds, all hoses, the rubber tank mounts, etc. Removed the tank and did the KBS Coating sealing system. Bike has run perfectly since. Got all parts from U-Moters but they are no longer the best price. I would try Gary McCoy at Mondak Motors. If you do not have a parts list for your bike, get one. In is also good to see how everything goes together. Sometimes better that the shop manual.