What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[ga_max]

Gave Thor a bath and tooks a 70 mile ride. Sometimes exploring a road you've never been on can by relaxing and fun.

 

[firebolt]

New black levers and new black dash, and helmet lock ordered!

 

[davesax36]

Just a little more progress...

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[BorgBiker]

Installed adjustable levers that are a bit more modern than the old silver levers.

I picked these up from Ebay, around $20 a pair. Easily worth 3 times that!

If any of you get this particular design, you will need to modify the clutch lever's actuator 'cam'. It's a separate round piece of metal (with a hole in the side) that pushes the master cylinder's piston shaft. The hole in the 'cam' is where the piston shaft sits, but the hole isn't quite deep enough, resulting in clutch slippage after about 4000rpm. I removed the 'cam' and drilled the hole a bit more, and found that it still slipped until I drilled all the way through the cam.

Apparently the lever puts the 'cam' just a millimeter or two closer to the master cylinder. Drilling the hole out completely solved the problem for me.

Next up: (finally) putting on the 6 piston calipers and the WR Rearsets.

 

[Traumahawk]

Installed adjustable levers that are a bit more modern than the old silver levers.

I picked these up from Ebay, around $20 a pair. Easily worth 3 times that!

If any of you get this particular design, you will need to modify the clutch lever's actuator 'cam'. It's a separate round piece of metal (with a hole in the side) that pushes the master cylinder's piston shaft. The hole in the 'cam' is where the piston shaft sits, but the hole isn't quite deep enough, resulting in clutch slippage after about 4000rpm. I removed the 'cam' and drilled the hole a bit more, and found that it still slipped until I drilled all the way through the cam.

Apparently the lever puts the 'cam' just a millimeter or two closer to the master cylinder. Drilling the hole out completely solved the problem for me.

Next up: (finally) putting on the 6 piston calipers and the WR Rearsets.

I ran into the same problem with aftermarket levers, and it took a while to figure out what the problem was. I went another route, and shaved a couple of MM off the pushrod for the clutch MC. Havent had an issue since.

 

[Fire-medic]

Modding the aftermarket part allows you to replace the lever if you're on the road and break one, with a OEM replacement. Modding the pushrod may make it not fully disengage if you were in a bind, away from home, and trying to replace a broken lever. I guess you could always add some weld to the pin and grind it to what you need.

I like to try and avoid much in the way of modding a stock piece so I can return it to stock if I wish, like selling it later, and returning it to stock.

I ran into the same problem with aftermarket levers, and it took a while to figure out what the problem was. I went another route, and shaved a couple of MM off the pushrod for the clutch MC. Havent had an issue since.

 

[Traumahawk]

Modding the aftermarket part allows you to replace the lever if you're on the road and break one, with a OEM replacement. Modding the pushrod may make it not fully disengage if you were in a bind, away from home, and trying to replace a broken lever. I guess you could always add some weld to the pin and grind it to what you need.

I like to try and avoid much in the way of modding a stock piece so I can return it to stock if I wish, like selling it later, and returning it to stock.

When it came time for me to make a choice, I really didnt have a way to hold the lever stationary, and drill into that cam...LOL, and thats not a job to hold in your hand, and use the drill with the other.

I do have a stock pushrod, that Ive saved....just incase. Any time that you replace the MC, a new pushrod is sent.

 

[adambweird]

Hey Borg, if those WR rearsets are Battlesteps, your gonna love em! I run mine all the down and back and its perfect! A word of advise though, use loctite, trust me!

 

[davesax36]

Hey Borg, if those WR rearsets are Battlesteps, your gonna love em! I run mine all the down and back and its perfect! A word of advise though, use loctite, trust me!

I kick myself weekly for letting those go...

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[firebolt]

Installed adjustable levers that are a bit more modern than the old silver levers.

I picked these up from Ebay, around $20 a pair. Easily worth 3 times that!

If any of you get this particular design, you will need to modify the clutch lever's actuator 'cam'. It's a separate round piece of metal (with a hole in the side) that pushes the master cylinder's piston shaft. The hole in the 'cam' is where the piston shaft sits, but the hole isn't quite deep enough, resulting in clutch slippage after about 4000rpm. I removed the 'cam' and drilled the hole a bit more, and found that it still slipped until I drilled all the way through the cam.

Apparently the lever puts the 'cam' just a millimeter or two closer to the master cylinder. Drilling the hole out completely solved the problem for me.

I wonder if this is what's going on with mine.

I wanted basically stock levers but black so I bought these:

http://www.automotivepartsfactory.c...-for-Yamaha-FJ-1200-V-Max-Vmax-111110422.html

Now instead of "clicking" into gear, it has a tiny grind to shifting, worse in lower gears. I was wondering if got some air in a line or if there was an adjustment somewhere, but this sounds more likely now.

 

[Traumahawk]

I wonder if this is what's going on with mine.

I wanted basically stock levers but black so I bought these:

http://www.automotivepartsfactory.c...-for-Yamaha-FJ-1200-V-Max-Vmax-111110422.html

Now instead of "clicking" into gear, it has a tiny grind to shifting, worse in lower gears. I was wondering if got some air in a line or if there was an adjustment somewhere, but this sounds more likely now.

There is an adjustment of the shift lever that you can do. You undo the lock bolt (that will keep the lever tight around the splines) then physically take the lever off, and move it up or down. I always liked mine down a bit for a more positive shift.

 

[eggohead]

Installed carbs, rear fender, scoops( need polished, maybe next week....) and found I am still having a electrical issue with right turn signal. So it looks like after I mow my front yard I will disconnect all my lights and see what the hell is going on. Oh and I got a bracket from Kyle for my sissy bar that I have been polishing..Had hoped to take he out for a run, new plate (95-MAX) didn't come in yet so maybe it is a sign... lol


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[effingidiot]

Got my scoops,and side panels etched primed.

 

[firebolt]

There is an adjustment of the shift lever that you can do. You undo the lock bolt (that will keep the lever tight around the splines) then physically take the lever off, and move it up or down. I always liked mine down a bit for a more positive shift.

THanks - It is like the clutch isn't completely disengaging enough for me to click it into gear smoothly. I'll take a look at it this weekend!

 

[effingidiot]

Prepped and plastic primmed mud guards,that's everything in primer.Gonna leave them for now,still to cold for spray painting.

 

[davesax36]

A little more...

https://youtu.be/i5mf1-XNpPo

 

[Fire-medic]

:Nixon:Looks & sounds good at idle. Twist it!

 

[davesax36]

:Nixon:Looks & sounds good at idle. Twist it!

Maybe tomorrow...It's very tame, but nice.

 

[Traumahawk]

It sounds very good......Congrats!!!!

 

[Eugene Brad]

Got a new helmet. Pretty stoked

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