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The factory manual has a gray wire in the VMX12E-12EC appendix which came out in '92. It goes to yellow. Mark

Try this thread: https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/led-instrument-lights-cant-find-thread.27999/

My dad gifted his '86 to me. He's almost 80 and enjoys his trike. Besides changing out 3 yo oil, converted to late model spin on filter. Has bad breath so time for a carb cleaning. Mark

If you turn the mixture screws in on a good running bike, idle will dip but still run. Float height, purge jets, throttle plate position, bypass holes, and main jet all have a part at idle speeds. Mark

There’s an adjuster at the carb rack and grip. Also check cable routing. Mark

Screw should be tight, manual says about 3 in/lbs. It's used to set the control cable tension.....loosen screw, cycle key on to cycle vboost valves, turn key off and tighten down the screw again. Mark

It's a pain if you don't move the coolant expansion tank out of the way. Just lift it up and set it off to the side. Then attaching hose to bottom of air box is no issue. I know there is a clamp on each end but I've only ever had the one that attaches to the engine side. No clamp required for...

You need to add diodes to the turn signal bulb to prevent the hazard flashing. This is due to only having one bulb on the cluster and an older style turn signal relay.

Great! I was going to suggest IM'ing Sean Morley on this forum or directly at [email protected]. Cheers. Mark

Yes it is.

Not sure if there's an easy answer. I've only removed it when the cases were split. You could try to find a small seal puller. Or try a small, self taping screw and popping it off with vice grips. Probably not a good idea to pry with a metal screwdriver.

Last year with a cotter pin was '95.

The wire goes into flywheel side. Yes the washer floats.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/yam/50045c0bf8700209bc7942e9/2007-v-max-vmx12w1-parts

It's fairly common on older bikes. The o-rings become hard and brittle. You'll need part #30. 93210-14579-00 You shouldn't need to remove the headers. Just the one inboard thermostat bolt shown in your picture (with the bracket) and pull the pipe out of the thermostat cover.

Agree with all the above. The only other time you would need to remove the clutch boss or further is if damage to those components or the engine halves needed to be separated.

I knew that part was on the Intake fiche and you can see it on the diagram. No part number is associated with it but is boxed in with the butterflies.

Ah, ok. That part is included with the butterfly valve assembly....part 1UT-13510-00-00. You're right, you can't buy that new anymore so used or asking Seah Morley will be your best bet.

Yes, there's a insert in there that slides. Screw is 3 mm machine screw. Mine isn't an OEM screw.

That secures the connector block to the Vboost bracket. To remove slack, loosen it, cycle key/vboost, tighten it back up.