Bolt size

[one2dmax]

You should still be able to hit the center post after getting it tight.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

Ok, a buddy lent me a 3jaw puller about a 5 ton I believe, now my question is, should I crank the center shaft tight and still use my mini sledge to pop it or should I just use the sledge on the harmonic balancer type? I just don't want to break a borrowed 3 jaw when I can go buy a balance puller for $20

if the jaw puller is built worth a crap it won't break. make sure the 'nub' that goes into the crankshaft fits well.

a $20 harmonic puller probably won't do the job, fyi.

 

[CustomMax]

Ok, got the flywheel pulled ( shit flew) but found all the pins and springs and discs. 3 of each. So I figured how the springs push the pins into the discs then the tin like cover over it. So I put it all back together(everything looked fine) after inspecting and replaced the 3 bolts. But now after reassembled when I hit the start button I'm getting a weird grinding sound like either the teeth on the starter shaft( they were a little bit rough). But I didn't want to keep cranking it at all because of the noise its making. Just to double check the bigger gear with the finer teeth is the one that rides on the starter right? I'll pull it back apart tomorrow but just curious if this is a common problem after this procedure. Any ideas appreciated, Ed

 

[CustomMax]

Oh yea, one more thing, just curious what the spring steel type wire that comes outta the end of the bolt that goes into the crank is for? Pretty sure I couldn't fuck that up. I just put it back the same as it came out.

 

[one2dmax]

It's an oil flinger. Pics and info (courtesy of Dingy) are posted up in the misc photo's in our facebook.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

ed, what'd you end up using?

 

[CustomMax]

I got it off with the 3 jaw puller but now it's making a weird grinding sound what could I have done wrong or could it be the starter shaft that looked a bit rough but looked like it should work still ( no missing teeth) or could the starter clutch be bad from starting it with the bolts loose? I'll tear it back apart tomorrow but WTF!!

 

[CustomMax]

Almost has a sound like something's binding. So I didn't keep trying to start it.

 

[CustomMax]

Just looking on Metricparts.com the starter clutch where the disks( dowels) fit into it looks like they're tight fit but mine looks like the dowels can move around a bit is that normal or is that picture wrong

 

[one2dmax]

The dowels need to be able to turn (at least the splined dowel with the 2 gears). You also have to have a gasket on it or that binds up the dowels.

Sean

 

[CustomMax]

Sean, ok, i see what your saying about the posts that the gears ride on. I'll check that out. I do have a gasket on but maybe could have over tightened the side case bolts as well. I'll check that too. Do you know the torque specs for those? Thanks dude, you really are The Man.. Thanks, Ed

 

[one2dmax]

Can't remember the torque but it's in the chart on the back of the manual. I don't ever use that though (at least not for the cover bolts).

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

Mine leaked until I believe I did 105 INCH pounds. I belive 85 to 90 inch pounds is right.

 

[CustomMax]

Yea I just thought That maybe I have them a little too tight. Thanks I'll let you know what's up, Ed

 

[satariel666]

Mine leaked until I believe I did 105 INCH pounds. I belive 85 to 90 inch pounds is right.

Overtorquing is not the way to fix the leak. Gaskets should be "wet trough"
with engine oil and used only ONCE(once torqued and its a junk).
Never had any leak trough the paper - trough the gromment? a few times.

I dare to say the torquing sequence is also important here.

 

[RaWarrior]

After I sanded flat my covers(both were warped causing an "incurable" oil leak) and re-assemled using only yamabond(no gasket), the starter gears were binding and it would turn over very slowly. Didn't make any weird noise, just like the battery was almost flat. Took it apart, used a gasket+yamabond, and it was a-ok again.

Does it sound like a bag of rocks in a clothes dryer? That's the little pucks rapidly binding/slipping on the gear ring making lots of unpleasant noise. It's usually caused by the clutch ring being loose(or cracked). Was the ring loose when you popped the flywheel? It's fairly common for it to come loose, and if left loose long enough the play will cause cracks to emerge around the 3 bolts. Once it's cracked it will probably never work right again...under load it'll spread just a touch and not engage right. Usually if the ring is loose you'll get the "bag of rocks" noise when cranking and/or lots of "missed" starts, where the starter spins up and either only briefly cranks the engine(then freewheels), or fails to crank the engine at all. Mine missed a lot due to a loose ring, the missing was more prevalent on a cold engine or on cold mornings, once warm it was usually fine.

I noticed synthetic oil seems to promote the starter clutch to slip as well. Even after tightening/loc-tite the starter clutch bolts, it would still occasionally "miss" when cold. Once I switched to conventional Rotella, it has never missed again, even now with temps well below freezing.

 

[CustomMax]

It did have that " bag of rocks sound" when the bolts were loose and yes it was worse when cold and after warming up it was fine but now the bolts are tight, I checked the flywheel and starter clutch and no cracks at all. The teeth on the starter itself look a little bit rough but not so bad that there's any teeth missing or broken. But it does have a sound like something's binding. I wanted to pull it back apart today but got too busy with work and didn't get a chance. So tomorrow I will pull the side cover again and check everything again. If I get the posts and gears working freely and it still has an issue I'll pull the flywheel again but I don't think it'll go that far( I hope). Oh yea, one other question, which bolt on the middle gear cover gets the copper washer? I'm not positive if it's the bottom or the middle on the left of the cover when looking at it. I've been looking but haven't found that info yet. Like I said before I'm thinking there's just a bind on the posts or one of the gears. I'll post what I find. Thanks for everyone's help and input. Ed

 

[RaWarrior]

It's the bottom center bolt. It's a little oil seal. I forgot it once on mine and it didn't leak, I put it back on anyway. So I guess it's not super important.

 

[gamorg02]

Overtorquing is not the way to fix the leak. Gaskets should be "wet trough"
with engine oil and used only ONCE(once torqued and its a junk).
Never had any leak trough the paper - trough the gromment? a few times.

I dare to say the torquing sequence is also important here.

now that i think about it, i think it was the middle gear cover and i put it on dry with vaseline. maybe i shoulda wetted it. either way i figured +/- 10% is ok. do you disagree. I agree with ryan though i think my covers aren't 100% flat and could be 'fixed'.

 

[satariel666]

now that i think about it, i think it was the middle gear cover and i put it on dry with vaseline. maybe i shoulda wetted it. either way i figured +/- 10% is ok. do you disagree. I agree with ryan though i think my covers aren't 100% flat and could be 'fixed'.

Vaseline? Hm, might work but I dont recall of ever doing this.

Once a guy came to me talking about a leak he couldt fix. He was torquing
the bolts tighter and tighter so finaly he broke 2 of them. I bealive it was the clutch cover. After removing broken bolts, i've checked that cover with clearance meter placing it on a good pice of glass - more then 1mm in some spots - that much could not be fixed. He told me did a DD upgrade some time in the past and reused the gasket.

Besides giving him another cover(trown the old one into scrap bucket) i also showed to him how to make a gasket by yourself.

+/- 10% of torque is ok. More then 20% can brake the bolt.