Morley's Muscle Kit and Nitrous Install

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Lankee... I got all my SS lines for around $180... I may be able to hook you up, let me know if you are interested.

Also, I think I found my NOS problem. I had to adjust my fuel pressure safety switch to ground... at first, I had 6 to 7 psi and the switch wasn't grounding. We tweaked it to open at anything below 4.5psi. I think when I activat the nitrous, my fuel pressure goes below that (and basically shuts the system off) I screwed out the adjustemet another 1/2 turn and walla! FUN Juice!

I sprayed it a few times... it got up to 145 quick!
I think I am back in action.

What types of pressure should I have the safety switch set at (when should it shut off?)

Thanks,

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, but I have placed my order with this place http://www.harrisspeed.com/shop/pconf.php?productid=16710
They make custom steel braided hose to the exact length not like other places. I am also having my NOS lines clear covered blue with blue anodized fittings and red for the fuel lines with anodized fittings.
Should look pretty trick all the other stainless lines I have seen were all silver with just the colored fittings. Pretty trick idea hahn?
 
Very interesting article on NOS tuning. One of the paragraphs reads as the following in quotes
"Dialing in a sophisticated nitrous system requires a patient, methodical approach. "Do not get greedy," says Holley/ NOS. "When you're going from a compressed liquid to a gas, the density changes constantly, and you don't have as much control as you'd like to," says Shafiroff. Go conservative on timing, be careful not to run too rich or too lean, use really cold plugs, and learn how to read the plugs. Institute a nitrous-system maintenance schedule. And hit the nitrous at the top of each gear, not the bottom. If building from scratch, design for high rpm--it's easier on a nitrous motor.


I guess somebody forgot to tell the Pro mod guys this too??

I'll agree to disagree. My street car ran faster than my V-Max does, and did it for quite a few miles thanks to Nitrous Express. My Dart, when it's done, will embarass the V-Max, even with the help of spray on the bikes part, also thanks to Nitrous Express.

For the record, I said nothing about spraying the thing off the line off idle on the bike, like I did that prior Mustang I had. (Nitrous hit at 3K shift at 7K). I AM saying, by the time he rolls into WOT after launching the bike, he'll be WAY passed an okay RPM to go ahead and spray. No need for a window switch in that app unless your using it to turn off the spray if you over rev.

I may be a "kid" at 25, but spent quite a few nights at the track dialing in nitrous cars.
 
I guess somebody forgot to tell the Pro mod guys this too??

I'll agree to disagree. My street car ran faster than my V-Max does, and did it for quite a few miles thanks to Nitrous Express. My Dart, when it's done, will embarass the V-Max, even with the help of spray on the bikes part, also thanks to Nitrous Express.

For the record, I said nothing about spraying the thing off the line off idle on the bike, like I did that prior Mustang I had. (Nitrous hit at 3K shift at 7K). I AM saying, by the time he rolls into WOT after launching the bike, he'll be WAY passed an okay RPM to go ahead and spray. No need for a window switch in that app unless your using it to turn off the spray if you over rev.

I may be a "kid" at 25, but spent quite a few nights at the track dialing in nitrous cars.


This is turning into an internet argument and you know what they say about internet arguments. Congrats !! 1/4:whistlin:
 
This is turning into an internet argument and you know what they say about internet arguments. Congrats !! 1/4:whistlin:

Haha there's a difference between a debate and an argument. I hope it's not getting heated for you, as I'm not at all.

Like I said in the 1st sentence in the second paragraph of my last post. I'll agree to disagree with you.
 
I think I have to take quarters side here. The engine should have more then enough RPM by the time he is able to open it up.

Sean
 
I think I have to take quarters side here. The engine should have more then enough RPM by the time he is able to open it up.

Sean

Guess it all depends on how you launch. If I am bracket racing with my delay box I am holding the RPMS at 5K and the clutch comes out slow and the bike lunges forward at about 15-20MPH and that is around 4K RPM and once the clutch is completly out thats when I go WOT.
I guess it would work if you are trying to holeshot for low et with slipping the clutch which in this style the RPMS are up around 8500 but I dont see any advantage to shooting NOS at this stage anyways.
I agree progressive NOS controllers are great! But I dont see how its practical in a street application on the VMAx as I said this motor makes more low end torque than anyone here can ride to full potential without flipping over or breaking a tire loose.
If I was to run a NOS dragbike with bars, and a car tire with a 2 step MSD than yes I could see the need for a progressive style controller for NOS.
i couldnt even use my NOS in first gear at the dragstrip due to it stood straight up at a 11 Oclock postion.
I can see it may be easier on the motor since it comes in a little more gradual. I agree with that.
 
Progressive controllers are also hard on solenoids, which is why I don't like 'em for street use.


Very True!! They pulsate and beat the hell out of em.
Can you say rebuild? Saying all this extra abuse on solenoids which leads to premature failure... ohh shit my fuel solenoid took a shit, PURE NOS shooting into cylnds, low fuel pressure switch isnt going to help you in this case. Hmm can you say HOLY PISTONS?
Thats why I believe the whole progressive controller for this application is a waste of money.
But hey they look cool. If I did get one which I am not I would make a flat plate and mount it above the Speedo
 
Very True!! They pulsate and beat the hell out of em.
Can you say rebuild? Saying all this extra abuse on solenoids which leads to premature failure... ohh shit my fuel solenoid took a shit, PURE NOS shooting into cylnds, low fuel pressure switch isnt going to help you in this case. Hmm can you say HOLY PISTONS?
Thats why I believe the whole progressive controller for this application is a waste of money.
But hey they look cool. If I did get one which I am not I would make a flat plate and mount it above the Speedo


we did rebuilds every 4 weekends of races on solenoids. Its spendy, but not as much as lunching the mill.
 
That's why you have a second solenoid that opens without going through the progressive system (and I told jeff that same thing which I think he bought one for that).

So progressing solenoid sticks - doesn't matter - regular solenoid stops pressure anyway. If it sticks closed then you are only going very rich until you shut off too.

Sean
 
You don't like my mounting location? I did just buy a new handlebar clamp on eBay for $10.50, that way if I take off the controller, I won't have two tapped holes in the dogbone/clamp.

Sean Morley had a great comment, he told me I could buy extra solenoids, and plum them before the solenoids connected to the progressive controller. This way, the first two solenoids will open, but will not be pulsating from the controller. If one of the pulsating solenoids would happen to stick, you have a back-up or safety solenoid that hasn't had all the abuse from the controller that "should" turn off the flow.

If the rain holds out today, I'll be heading to the 1/8th mile track tonight to test out the funny gas. Going to Eddyville Quarterhorse if you want to come down.
 

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Isn't even a regular nitrous setup using an awefull amount of amps up on an already shitty electrical system.Addind more solenoids might pull too much.
 
Not sure about 12 volt solenoids but 120 volt ones pull almost nothing; less than an amp.

They're not on long enough to hurt anything anyway; I think....
 
That's why you have a second solenoid that opens without going through the progressive system (and I told jeff that same thing which I think he bought one for that).

So progressing solenoid sticks - doesn't matter - regular solenoid stops pressure anyway. If it sticks closed then you are only going very rich until you shut off too.

Sean


That would be fine in this app, but when running two stages or more, those big solenoids that flow 400+ take up some room. :D
 
If the rain holds out today, I'll be heading to the 1/8th mile track tonight to test out the funny gas. Going to Eddyville Quarterhorse if you want to come down.


Ya know, I hate my life sometimes haha. I'm obligated to go to a surprise B-Day party tonight. Next friday I'm heading down with a friend for some shake down passes in his new set up in a Mustang. Shooting for mid 6's on the motor. :punk:
 
Well I guess we will see if this progressive stuff is worth all the xtra money on a street stock wheelbase VMAX.
This progressive setup is supposed to increase the performance in which should lower your E/T.

Since we are pretty much similiar as far as stock motors with aftermarket exhaust running a street tire on pump gas and total weight is it fair to say post some E/T slips to see the gains at the track?
I will have my new braided lines in Hopefully buy Wed and will try out my NOS this yr next Friday the 4th.
If you would like I will also use the same NOS jetting as you.
If all this progressive controller crap makes this app faster than you should be able to holeshot harder and also have more MPH in the 1/8 is this true?

Yeah I like where you mounted the controller.:cheers:

Post a time slip.
 
I'm really hoping this thread will be more educational than argumentative. I'm not saying there aren't things that can be learned by disagreements and discussions, but I am just trying to post what I have done and any lessons learned along the way. With that being said, I can't help to reply about the controller. I am very new to drag racing (and nitrous) the controller cost $100 and I figured it should be a little easier on the motor shooting a smaller % over a given time than shooting a full shot all at once. I understand exactly what you are saying lankee about the torque and it already has enough to launch with a street tire, but this is something I wanted to try and play with. I'm not going win any races at the strip, and I won't even be close to hanging with most bikes there, but it is somehting to try.

It just started to sprinkle a little here... so cross your fingers and we'll see if I can get to the track tonight!

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Yeah we'll start handing out Tom Owens awards! :whistlin:

You going this weekend Jeff?
 
When I ran NOS on my bike on the street years ago all it would do is immediately fry the tire when it kicked in. Of course I was using an 80 or 100 hp shot (don't recall now). I do know the trans didn't like it and pretty much went to shit quickly.

The progressive is nice as it allows you to ramp up the power so you can actually bring it on sooner without engine damage or even a shock load to the chassis that would break parts or traction.

The only tough part about it is dialing it in for the conditions you are seeing. A good sticky track will let you ramp up quicker and more power at the start of the progression. A looser track will need longer ramp time and lower initial hit. Without it you have no adjustments so you're S.O.L. if the tire can't hold the instant power.

If you've never experienced the added power Nirous gives it is addicting. It is very easy to keep adding a little more and get to the point that the engine will not last long.

I like the turbo and superchargers since I never run out of boost and generally keep climbing in power the higher the RPM you go. Nitrous is a dying power adder as these others improve. A lot of turbo guys still like to use it to get their turbo's going (right off the start) and keep intake tract temps under control.

Good Luck Jeff!

Sean Morley
 
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