What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Garret ,that matt finish looks good,I couldnt have gotten that look, only gloss.glad you went that route, youll be much happier. dont forget when ever you ready for the .................. well get going on it.Im going to neeed some opinions on my project soon!

to be honest rick, it was only like double or triple what you offered me. which all things consdiered is a ******* good deal.

it turned out real well minus one threaded hole got some powder in it. spent 20 mins tapping it out then just stuck a small pick in there and got it out and was done 20 seconds later....

i'm not sure on the projects for me yet, i have some other ideas too. but hey maybe i could bring a few brewskies over and we'll chat about your current R&D?
 
Any time bud,Im in the shop fri,sat,sun till its done! and yes that was a great deal for the powder coating,nice to see not everyones looking to screw someone else!
 
Any time bud,Im in the shop fri,sat,sun till its done! and yes that was a great deal for the powder coating,nice to see not everyones looking to screw someone else!


i hear ya. i might be bored tomorrow. i'll let ya know...

the best part is the powdercoater is 3.2 miles from my house. he even offers free delivery but whatever. i can get out and pick it up.
 
Well, I was out in the garage removing my 5" tach from my max, to ship off, and was planning on putting just a shift light in it's place. I'm going for the minimal look found on most of the euro streetfighters.

Basically I'm going to relocate the digital speedo to the center of the handlebar clamps and above it, in the original speedo location mount the shift light.

I was thinking of trick ways to mount it when I got brain overload over thinking mounts and ****. So I went in the house to get my mind off the Max and started cleaning my .300WM and thats when it hit me. So here's the idea.

I have a spare two-piece scope mount that I lost the other piece, so I'm left with about a 1.25" long scope mount. I'm going to drill and tap the riser, then mount the single scope mount (with different screws, longer and with nuts to make sure they don't back out). Then grab a 1" scope ring then voila! trick, clean shift light mount.

I'll post pictures when I get it done. I'm going to have to fit this in along with the other upgrades between school.

What do you guys think?
 
can't picture it to be honest, got any mock drawings KJ?
 
can't picture it to be honest, got any mock drawings KJ?

No drawings, but a quick photoshop.

I was going to take the one piece of the two piece scope mount that I have and mount it where the stock speedo goes. 'cetp I'm going to use longer bolts so I can put a nut on the other side.

Then use a 1" scope ring to mount the shift light. Then below that I'll be relocating the digital speedo to the front of the handlebar clamp.

so I won't have a tach mounted on the bike anymore. just the shiftlight and benieth that, the speedo.
 

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ah ok i gotcha now. i wouldn't like running w/out a tach, are you going to make a plug that you could just hook one up if needed? if ur going for the minimalist euro streetfighter, its gonna look sick!
 
ah ok i gotcha now. i wouldn't like running w/out a tach, are you going to make a plug that you could just hook one up if needed? if ur going for the minimalist euro streetfighter, its gonna look sick!

I what thinking, what do I need a tach for if I have a rev limiter and a shift light. The stock Vmax tach IMO is worthless cause it pulls your eyes from the roadway anyway.

I'm going to make a 3 wire plug that will be safely tucked away under the dummy tank. Then I'm going to trim up the stock instrument faceplate to just the tach, then put it in a box so when I go to tune I'll just plug it in.
 
I what thinking, what do I need a tach for if I have a rev limiter and a shift light. The stock Vmax tach IMO is worthless cause it pulls your eyes from the roadway anyway.

I'm going to make a 3 wire plug that will be safely tucked away under the dummy tank. Then I'm going to trim up the stock instrument faceplate to just the tach, then put it in a box so when I go to tune I'll just plug it in.

i think thats the perfect approach. i agree. a 3 stage or 2 stage light woulda been key huh? like a vboost light and then a 8500rpm light then like a 9500 rpm light?

but you're right i only use the tach for troubleshooting/setting idle/etc so if you have a nice 3 plug wire to just throw it in there you're good to go.

with my shift light, it'd actually be (without a flyscreen) very easy to just set the light so i could set idle. so i'd set the shift light to 1100 or something and then just raise the idle until it hits the light then back it off a smidge.
 
I have a spare two-piece scope mount that I lost the other piece, so I'm left with about a 1.25" long scope mount. I'm going to drill and tap the riser, then mount the single scope mount (with different screws, longer and with nuts to make sure they don't back out). Then grab a 1" scope ring then voila! trick, clean shift light mount.

I'll post pictures when I get it done. I'm going to have to fit this in along with the other upgrades between school.

What do you guys think?

I'm thinking there's bonus points to be had here if you integrate the shift light into an old scope body to go with your ring mount. Adds a nice WTF factor.
 
Installed new steering head bearings on Sallymax and got her all buttoned back up except for the headlight and speedo. did the 2-step torque on the bearings, per the manual....they sure feel nice and smooth....it'll be interesting to see how they hold up with the 26 1/2 inch lb's, which is just slightly heavier than finger tight. :ummm:

I'll do the 'bounce test' tomorrow, see how it does with that. :confused2:

I'd love to take it out for a cruise to see if there is any wobble anywhere, but that's totally out of the question, unfortunately. :bang head:
 
Installed new steering head bearings on Sallymax and got her all buttoned back up except for the headlight and speedo. did the 2-step torque on the bearings, per the manual....they sure feel nice and smooth....it'll be interesting to see how they hold up with the 26 1/2 inch lb's, which is just slightly heavier than finger tight. :ummm:

I'll do the 'bounce test' tomorrow, see how it does with that. :confused2:

I'd love to take it out for a cruise to see if there is any wobble anywhere, but that's totally out of the question, unfortunately. :bang head:

The only cruising around here is being done in a CANOE!!!!!!:bang head:
 
pounded some bearings out of a set of '85 rims and helped the cleanup crew with my basement. thank god for insurance!
 
Got my Mark's exhaust today and Sean's jet kit. Woohoo! Thanks much, Mike!!!

Just waiting on a few more parts and the weather to warm up a little (20s is a wee bit cold for working on the MC :() and I'll be installing.
 
Over the weekend I removed Redbone's motor from the frame and tonight I finished up getting it mounted into a repurposed Dell server box that had the perfect sized pallet.
Getting the motor out was a mixture of following the service manual (not very detailed) and a lot of "Hmmm, ok this might work". I had a bit of difficulty getting the middle drive gear to pull out of the crankcase so I had to wiggle and cuss to get it free of the frame. Had I got the gear out properly it would been a lot easier! I'll remove the swingarm and reinstall the gear onto the driveshaft while painting the S/A and pumpkin. That should make the motor install go much smoother.
Now to get it to the shipper and on it's way to Sean for beautification and transmission repair/ upgrade. All you guys at the Brownie Run 2010 will get a first hand look at Seans handiwork and my new mods from this winter!:punk:
 
where to begin, took off the middle cover to get to the slave cylinder to do a rebuild, took off the front cover as it seems to have a leak since i got the bike and well make the slave rebuild easier. moved on to taking off the clutch res cover to pull out fluid and well i know it was a long shot, both screws stripped.

so with no extractor around went on to take the carbs off to check/chg jets and look at needle postion. so pulled out 160, put in 150 mikuni's but guess if they are Dj160 same thing but i can see a diff in the orfice, 150 look smaller? anyways looks like floats are a little too high so will get to those later on.
checked the needles, all got stg 7 and set at third from top(6 in totall) and not sure if this is how it suppose to go but plastic piece, e-clip, small washer, larger washer spring then large screw? is that sound right, whats the point of the small washer after e-clip? is that to hold the larger washer that helps hold the little spring?

went to check a/f screws and two are good set the same, other two wont budge so going to soak them tonight in wd40 and try again tomorrow.

so not sure what i did to the bike but take a hole lot of things apart, scattered them around the garage and now thinking why did i even bother?
 
where to begin, took off the middle cover to get to the slave cylinder to do a rebuild, took off the front cover as it seems to have a leak since i got the bike and well make the slave rebuild easier. moved on to taking off the clutch res cover to pull out fluid and well i know it was a long shot, both screws stripped.

so with no extractor around went on to take the carbs off to check/chg jets and look at needle postion. so pulled out 160, put in 150 mikuni's but guess if they are Dj160 same thing but i can see a diff in the orfice, 150 look smaller? anyways looks like floats are a little too high so will get to those later on.
checked the needles, all got stg 7 and set at third from top(6 in totall) and not sure if this is how it suppose to go but plastic piece, e-clip, small washer, larger washer spring then large screw? is that sound right, whats the point of the small washer after e-clip? is that to hold the larger washer that helps hold the little spring?

went to check a/f screws and two are good set the same, other two wont budge so going to soak them tonight in wd40 and try again tomorrow.

so not sure what i did to the bike but take a hole lot of things apart, scattered them around the garage and now thinking why did i even bother?

Go to a john Deere dealer and get a can of Fluid Film........It is the BEST penetrating lube and rust preventer I have ever seen.....

No I do not sell it......own stock in it.....or have any financial interest in the stuff.....

I just know it works better than WD40.....Kroil.....PBlaster etc.....

You can only get at John Deere dealers though:confused2:

or online.....
 
thanks kyle, there is a dealer down the road i'll go check it out. the best stuff ive ever used was the stuff they use to treat lumber with back in the day, maybe called kreasote not sure gotta ask my buddy, you put a drop on anything like rusted exhaust bolts and they will undo and not snap, crazy stuff, not meant as penatrant but works, ofcouse cant get it now, cancer causing that kind of stuff, all the good stuff cant get anymore.
 
thanks kyle, there is a dealer down the road i'll go check it out. the best stuff ive ever used was the stuff they use to treat lumber with back in the day, maybe called kreasote not sure gotta ask my buddy, you put a drop on anything like rusted exhaust bolts and they will undo and not snap, crazy stuff, not meant as penatrant but works, ofcouse cant get it now, cancer causing that kind of stuff, all the good stuff cant get anymore.

Get a can of Fluid Film......you won't regret it......just don't get it on anything you want to paint or you will have a hell of a time cleaning it off so paint will stick:confused2:
 
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